Showing posts with label DIY. Show all posts
Showing posts with label DIY. Show all posts

6.8.10

Distressed Autumn Library dress, Vogue 1190

Orchids!




Why did I choose this pattern?. I really liked this pattern because it was another new shape for me. A break away from the sheath again. There is nothing in my closet that comes close to this dress! The skirt has a bit of hem flare but it wasn't too wide in the hips or at the hem.

Pattern Description & sizing:




How do I look? There aren't enough modifications for it to look different than the line drawing, basically twins right? It's a bit low in the front, but not crazy. I'll add a snap later.









The instructions & construction! Wow! The instructions are very clear and straight forward. Vogue classifies this pattern an easy, and it is! The beginner can do this (depending on fabric choice), especially if there are no major alterations needed. Most of all, I loved the construction, it's really beautiful inside and out! The front bodice has 2 lower edge pleats, vertical and horizontal bust darts. The horizontal buts dart is exposed so I stitched it in bubble gum pink so it could be seen! Another great feature is that all vertical seams are french seamed. So, no serger needed. Everything is enclosed! But because I microwaved this one, inside all of my French seam is a serged seam. Blame it on the fabric, more on that later.



Favorite things about the pattern? My favorite pattern surprise? A hong kong finished zipper! I was so happy to see this, and it was a breeze to finish since I just used this technique on my Minnie Penny pocket pant #3! I didn't use bias tape as suggested, I used my fashion fabric.


What scared me the most? Completing the French seam first on the center back seam and then inserting the zipper! I chose to follow the directions and it turned out very well. The key is to clip just above the finished French seam to the the zipper SA will freely lay flat. Because of my fabric type, I use a bit of fusible on the fashion fabric before I clipped so it didn't get hairy!

My Fashion Fabric: Oh my! After shopping my stash, I didn't find anything that really worked. So off to the store! Because of the uniqueness of the dress I wanted to push myself in the print department. Easy road: silky animal print...i almost went there! But after trying something out, I choose this quirky pretty print.

Every piece of fabric that I buy has to pass 2 HLT tests. 1) does it look good on me in the mirror? Yes, I'll either bring my own or search for one to use in the store. 2) Will it photograph well? Albeit flouresent, most fabric stores have adequate lighting to prevent trips and falls. But I'll whip out my iPhone and take a picture of it and look at it. Of course it's going to be bad because there no flash and cheap store lighting! But that's the point. If the fabric still looks great in those conditions, it's basically in the bag. (these are not the only HLT fabric test, there's touchy, feely, rub, rub stretch test & fabric content guessing, and a couple others)




This fabric has so many colors. As you can see I tried to swatch them, but I'm probably only at 80%. The comprehensive tones happen to be just right. It's interesting that some of the colors individually would look very bad with my skin tone. Yes, it's polyester, but I'm not mad. Sheer, light, flowy. The weight is much like the Sweet ruffles blouse, but the texture is smoother. It's raw edge can get very hairy, that's why I serged!

My contrast waistband is black poly crinkle from my stash. I haven't made the bow yet, but I might. And if I do it will be a pin, not sewn on. Sometimes I don't feel like a bow. Navy invisible zipper.

Changes I made: Only 1 for fitting. I cut 1.5 inches off the front bodice shoulder. Clearly, I don't have a super long torso, so I have to adjust.

Transition styling: added cardigan. This looks great with my navy polka dot peep toes!








Future pattern plans? Yes, I want to sew it again! This would make a really great LBD. I'm also thinking about knit possibilities, sans zipper. Or, just modifying the back so that there's full coverage.








Final thoughts: . I love it! It's different. I was thinking... Would I have given this dress a second look at the department store, even if I was snoop shopping? Would it have enough hanger appeal to bring me to the rack? Probably not. But it looks great on!









I was in this dress all day in the big apple! It's also great for wading in the humidity. Nothings worse in the summer weather than feeling glued into your clothes. This dress has a flirty style and a swingy hem. Oh, I also didn't topstitch my ruffles down as suggested. Not a time issue, just a design issue. It's just me, I think it takes away from the ruffle bounce! But even in the wind my ruffles didn't let me down.

HLT recommend additions: strapless undergarments! I might try placing undergarment modesty loops at the shoulder & at the back bodice...zipper level. I think that will work for those highly specialized undergarments.

It's a great Tracy Reese pattern, it's unique, fun and flirty. I'm glad that I pushed the edges of time a bit to get this dress done...I wouldn't have this pattern yet if I didn't BMV. BTW, the vogues are on sale at the 'J' this weekend. I wouldn't be wearing this dress if I waited for this sale! I'm even happier about my fabric choice!








Thanks for coming over!








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3.8.10

I'm calling it! It's over! I'm moving on!

Good bye summer sewing...



I didn't plan this, but it's been the summer of the skirt! After I spent a day (late spring) trudging in sweltering heat and swimming through the humidity, capris and shorts were not working for me! Fabric sticking to skin is not stylish on me, IMO. These skirt were super easy to make, they don't require much fabric, and they can be finished in an hour or two.

In the tops and bottoms category there are 2 items that were not necessarily outfitted the most, they were just great for me!: the Sunset Seagulls Tank & the Impressionist Pencil Skirt. This skirt ranks highest overall, the print is so versatile, casual or dressy. It's not clingy and wades through humidity quite nicely.

Here's the breakdown:

7 Skirts:
Zebra pencil skirt (worn 5 times)
Vintage zebra pencil skirtt (worn 1 time)
Impressionist pencil skirt (worn 3 times)
Turkish delight pencil skirt (worn 1 time)
Navy tropical skirt (worn 3 times)  Thought I did a post but it's the same pattern as the zebra pencil skirt.
Stretch linen pleated skirt (worn 1 time)
Vintage A+ skirt (worn 1 time)

4 Tops
Sunset seagulls tank (worn 3 times)
Vacay Flutter Tank (worn 2 times)
Vacay Tulle Fountain Tank (worn 2 times)
Sweet Ruffle Wrap blouse (worn 1 time)

1 Apron
Zebra, Toile, Batik Oh my! Apron & here.(worn 2 times)

3 Pants (Transition ready!)
Minnie Penny Pant 3
A Little Bit Skinny Penny Pant 2
Skinny Penny Pant 1

2 DIY Upgrade
Liberty Floral Daze Cardigan (worn 2 times)
Black Lattice Belt (worn 1 time)


Well, now that I look back, I didn't reach my goal, so far as the number, of dresses sewn. What really slowed me down, was not having/finding the right fabric for the pattern. I could have squeezed in another solid/cotton brocade. But I'm very happy that I achieved different goal of adding color and prints to my wardrobe. Finally! I think the solid dress and the print neutrals will be most wearable for next year, for sure, we will have to see about the others.

As you can tell there's a certain shape and form that just works for me. The sheath dress is my comfort and staple, my signature if you will.  I want to continue to try out new shapes so that my signature stays fresh, not boring!   After wearing each of these dresses one of them rises above. This dress interrupted my conversations and interrupted conversations in passing. It's the Painted Zebra Wrap dress! I was trying something different and it worked!

2 neutral prints that I will be able to wear next year:
Painted zebra wrap dress (worn 1 time)
Vintage cowl neck dress (worn 1 time)

1 Solids (seasonless, I plan to wear it in the winter too, with tights!)
Vintage Cowl Neck Dress (worn 1 time)

3 Summer print dresses
Impressionist Floral Dress (worn 2 times)
Hot Shoulder Dress (worn 2 times)
Charlotte York Goldblat SATC 2 homage dress (worn 1 time)

1 dress for HLS
The Alumni Dress & here.(at least twice)

Hmm... seems like I'm forgetting something, maybe not.  But I've been productive & practicing! Getting back into it after a winter of here & there projects, has been rewarding! It's not a wardrobe, but I sewed what I wanted, and I like that.

So what's next...
Building a transitional wardrobe on the pants that I've just sewn, then adding in tops, jackets and suits and dresses. But I'm starting with separates. You might see a couple summer items pop up this month, but it's time to plan forward.   And of course there will some surprises in-between.

Thanks for stopping by!

1.8.10

Fresh out of the microwave! ... Tracy Reese Vogue 1190 dress!

Or toaster oven...




This dress is awesome! There's so much so say but in short, this is a great pattern! Great design & construction! But there's good news and not so good news. The good: my microwave was working overtime today and this dress I'd nearly done! Just the final touches remain and shes ready for lights! I'm very happy about at least one Vogue getting sewed up, because I will not have much time this week for sewing. The not so good part: No pics of me in the dress till Friday, sorry favorite readers. When you see the pics you'll totally understand why I waited and left the boring Martha Stewart Dove wall alone this time. Sew, it was a good day!

That's all!



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26.7.10

A little bit Minnie, skinny penny pant, sample 2

Vogue 1039. You've seen sample 1, here's more details and my second version!






The pocket process deciphered :















































Up close details!





Ok, so I had 10 more pictures to show you readers but they were so fuzzy I was getting dizzy! Sorry you can't see the front of this outfit.





The tone and texture of these pants is very neutral, so they basically will coordinate with everything, but I like them with a pop of color!





I'm glad I changed a few things! I love the belt loops and the garment quality pockets (idea from the Making Trousers book by David Coffin) I also lowered the waistband by 1/2 inch as compared to sample 1. Serged the inseams & side seams together after it was machine stitched, like jeans. Slightly cropped (2 inches shorter than sample 1) but will work with heels or flats. The fit is...whoa! But the fabric is cotton stretch twill so they are very comfortable!

So I'm off to finish my final pair! Scream! The fit will be somewhere between sample 1 & 2 with a couple different features! It's all good though, my final pair should be a breeze, right?! The fabric from the first 2 pair was just in my stash, so it was great to use fabric that vie had for years. BTW, DH really likes these!







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23.7.10

Skinny Penny Pocket pant, V1039 sample 1

Well almost skinny...







Tissue fitting first ...

What I learned:
Wow, leg length is great! For 5"2', it's spot on!
Oh no, the waistband hits my sternum. Will adjust for that.

The pattern info:

MISSES’ TUNIC AND PANTS: Loose-fitting tunic with extended shoulders, front and back pleats, side gathered bands and shaped hem band, topstitched trim. Pants have side front slant pockets, upper inside pocket (that there is no picture of, but I'll show you later), contour yoke with back tab, invisible zipper closing and topstitched trim, above ankle length.

Side note: This is almost exactly what I want in a pant pattern! Initially I planned for this pair to be my muslin. I used fashion fabric that I purchased many years ago, but the weight and stretch is similar to the fashion fabric that I planned to use on my final sample.

NOTIONS: Pants: 7"/9" Invisible Zipper, Hooks and Eyes.

FABRICS: Tunic: Charmeuse and Crepe de Chine. Pants: Stretch Linen and Stretch Crepe. The stretch is very important in the comfort & fit!

Combinations: BB(8-10-12-14), FF(16-18-20-22)












Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes! But I was really worried about it, especially after I finished the penny pocket!

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes they were! And believe me, I read them 2x before cutting, and then again during the process. While making the pockets, I was challenged to visualize how it would fit together, but if you follow the instructions, step-by-step they will turn out nicely!

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?. I loved the skinniness and the side zip! Front fly trousers send me into a sewing sabbatical faster than.... But I'm working on that.

Fabric Used: Brown black poly stretch with a slate blue pinstripe, with a hint of midnight. It's really nice, probably from Fabric Warehouse before they moved.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: The only alteration was to shorten the rise by 1.75 inches! I know! That's a lot, it was risky, but I wanted a modern/trendy waistline. Glad I did! Fortunately, that matched up well. I didn't do much topstitching, wanted to keep the look clean.












Oh yea, after thinking about the unique midnight pinstripe I decided to add a design element to complement the color. I switched the back facing piece to a dark blue linen.












The back tab thingie is a disaster if you already have issues with the back waistband sticking out. On my next muslin I will delete that!

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I'm working on a purely test muslin to correct some fitting issues and then I'll do it again on my fashion fabric. On my next muslin sample I'll show more step-by-step details.












Conclusion: Almost love. Will wear with Spanx! LOL!!!!

Changes on the next pair: delete the back tab, slim the legs down a bit, crop the leg a bit, add cool pocket lining, adjust for the FFT (full front thigh, how embarrassing!).

Oh, the top? I made it a couple years ago! It's an RTW copy/modification.

Thanks for reading, really!







20.7.10

McCalls vintage 7003 circa 1963

1st muslin!






Pattern pictures: I'm loving the indigo ink!

Front Bodice





Up close of the front bodice





Front bodice darts





Back bodice





Skirt back with double darts





Pattern Description:
Cowl neck, drop-shoulder dress with slim or lightly flared three-gore skirt. Bodice front is bias, has chain weight underneath cowl drape. Flared skirt is cathered at the side back and side front. Slim skirt has side front pleats, slow back pleat. Either version has center back zipper and may be lined.

Pattern Sizing: 14, 34 bust. This is a one size pattern. I probably could do well with a size 12 because I graded everything down 1/2 inch.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Almost. The drape is not as dramatic as I had hoped, but If you look closely at the pattern photo you'll see that the sleeve wings out slightly. That's not a look I'm a fan of on me.






Were the instructions easy to follow? The instructions were truly vintage, with back facing and armholes facing. I didn't go that route. My dress is fully lined, but I had to redrafted the back bodice lining to correct for the back facing (that I choose to use) and lower the lining on the front pattern piece because it's self faced. The pattern does not correct for this. The instructions follow techniques that are not as relevant with the technologies available on most machines today. They do require much more hand stitching, while on my garment only the hem is hand stitched.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? The picture on the front sold me, with that Jackie O flair! DH thinks I need a hat, but I'm not sold on that yet.






Fabric Used: A bouncy cotton poly blend. I did a couple burn tests to attempt confirmation, very slow burning, woody aroma, but the ashes didn't fall. So there's probably some poly or acetate in the percentage. Bemberg lining. Invisible zipper. I think that the rest of this fabric will be put in the circular filing bin (the trash).





Sorry, my form is leaning!





Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I had to size down 1/2 inch on the vertical seams, 6 inches off the hem. The waist fit and back darts are spot on. BTW, the waist seam is about 1 inch above my natural waist. Slightly high! Also the lining changes noted above.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I plan to sew this again, I'll probably do one more muslin... playing around with sleeve/shoulder seam darts, increasing the seam allowance so there's less sleeve or re-cutting them all together. Other considerations: reducing the armscye circumference (it's not fine not but it could be better, elongating at the shoulder seam and widening the cowl portion of the pattern for better drape. Eventually, I want to make this out of lightweight wool jersey which will be much easier to sew, IMO.

Conclusion: The sleeves are not that flattering on my arms. And the high neckline alters the proportions, balance & rule of thirds. But over all I do like it! Especially, with the asymmetrical neckline + brooch. I couldn't ask for a better fit on a first try vintage pattern.





It's twisted & shorter! Tip of the day from Threads Insider Techniques DVD (I haven't watched every part but I found this little sparkling gem in the collar unit on the main menu. I also re-learned this little gem after completing this project). BTW, I highly recommend watching this if you haven't seen it yet. And If you don't want own it, make sure your local library does!)

B on B, bigger on the bottom, bias on the bottom! When sewing with bias, put it next to the feed dogs because they 'eat'. The pressed foot pushes the fabric. This will assure that both pieces of fabric will end up the same length.

I believe that this was an issue on this dress because the front bodice is cut on the bias. So at the side seams and shoulder seams there is that potential for wonkyness!! Some seams are good, others...no do much.

I'd like to hear your thoughts on this. Is this dress it wearable? How do you sew bias? Do you follow the B on B principle? Or does it just work out for you? Suggestions?





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19.7.10

Lattice belt DIY

Happy Monday Readers! I'm too tired to post want I want to post, but that will come tomorrow. Sorry. But I did get a little crafty today with this belt that I probably purchased 2 years ago from one of those cheapy cheap accessories stores, with the intention of using it on a sewing project in some way. Today was the day!

This belt caught my attention because of the intricate laser work, albeit on vegan leather textile. It did have some cons, it's two sizes to large and it has a hideous generic buckle. I started the project by cutting the belt 1 inch longer than my natural waist.



Keeping the original design of the end of the belt, I replicated the form on the opposite end and cut my hook and loop tape to match. From my experience sewing animal hide leather, using a tiny amount of rubber cement is helpful to set leather or leather like textiles. And I switched my needle to a leather grade needle.

Some of you may remember this (pre-blog, review is on PR):



Back to the belt...I sewed the tape onto each end using bar tacks which provided enough support for the wear and tear.


And voilà! I'll post about my vintage pattern dress tomorrow.



And one more thing...

While fabric shopping today, I commented on a piece of fabric that another customer scored in the remnant section. Hot, Italian rayon ikat knit border print, really great. Lovely. And then we both went our on way in the store. Much, much, much later she returned to me and said that the fabric was to thin for the project that she wanted to do, and offered it to me! Wow! A fabric store act of kindness. It was unexpected! I graciously accepted the piece. So to you, beautiful kind stranger I say, THANK YOU x 1000! Not just because I received some really cool fabric, but because I was blessed by your choice of kindness to another human being!



...that's all.


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