So what's new?
This time I did the 1 inch front thigh alteration. This shall be my standard.
And a full seat alteration. I followed the instructions from the threads DVD. It's about 1/3 inch, should have done 1/2 inch. This prevents that horrible peek-a-boo from the back view!
Same pocket construction with the zig-zagstitch. I used polka dot cotton for the pockets and finished them the French way!
I only made 4 belt loops this time (not in the pattern) two on the front and two on the back. Installed the zipper in the back too. Kinda weird, but I have a pair like that and I like them. The trick is so shorten the zipper so it doesn't end up you know where! So I cut mine to 6 inches. Just right!
I also cut the waistband down to a normal, RTW width. lowered the waist band by 1.5 inches. It seems that most of the pant patterns that I've tried, which is not that many, the rise and the waistband often hits my sternum! I know, I'm petite, but why do the pattern companies follow the trends for every other garment (dresses, blouses etc.) except pants. However, this pattern does provide a place to adjust the pant rise and 2 other adjustment lines for altering the leg length. On this pair I shortened at the thigh 1/2 inch. The rest of the work is in the waistband.
The side seams & inseams were machine stitched, serged and then pressed to the back.
I'm liking the back zip detail! I used more of the polka dot fabric to finish the zipper. Hong Kong finished on all sides. It's an important feature when the zipper's back there! I saw this feature on a St. John blouse while snoop shopping at Nordstroms. The blouse was very sheer, invisible side zipper, cowl neck floral print. It only partially caught my eye, but the inside was beautiful and that comes with a $300 price tag...on the sale rack! Anyhow, I'll use this finish when I make a sheer blouse, which I need to do soon to coordinate with all of my new pants.
Because the zipper is placed so, it's super reinforced! It's got a lot of work to do if you know what I'm saying! I've never stitched an invisible so close! But each side of the tape has 4 rows of stitching, including a baste stitch. It will not fail me!
The leg is slimmed compared to the first sample but not as fitted in the leg compared to the second sample.
Inspiration: Pretty close, except my pockets are better, well I like them better. The inspiration version has back welt pockets. Speaking of welts, it's my personal goal this year to master the welt, all kinds of welts, even the Kenneth D. King versions! I know it takes lots of practice, and that's exactly what I will do!
Fabric Used: Charcoal gray stretch (I'm guessing about 3% Lycra ) cotton twill (Haberman's). Of course I think it's J.Crew fabric, it came in with the same shipment but not labeled. They feel so comfortable!
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I probably will not do these pants and time soon. Although if I did, it would be a 3 hour project, yea! But I do highly recommend this pattern!
So let's compare:
Conclusion: I liked the process of sewing the same pant pattern in sequence. Applying new alteration techniques is an enjoyable process, especially when you get it right! To explore the same pattern repeatedly opens the door to mastery. I now know that I will have to apply some alteration to any pant pattern that I sew.
I have plans to apply the same process for front fly trouser style pants, for the experience and knowledge retention, when the weather cools, if I can find a pattern that I like. Definitely, give this one a try if you are looking for a slim or skinny pant! Will you try this pattern? Watcha think?
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