McCalls vintage 7003 circa 1963

1st muslin!






Pattern pictures: I'm loving the indigo ink!

Front Bodice





Up close of the front bodice





Front bodice darts





Back bodice





Skirt back with double darts





Pattern Description:
Cowl neck, drop-shoulder dress with slim or lightly flared three-gore skirt. Bodice front is bias, has chain weight underneath cowl drape. Flared skirt is cathered at the side back and side front. Slim skirt has side front pleats, slow back pleat. Either version has center back zipper and may be lined.

Pattern Sizing: 14, 34 bust. This is a one size pattern. I probably could do well with a size 12 because I graded everything down 1/2 inch.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Almost. The drape is not as dramatic as I had hoped, but If you look closely at the pattern photo you'll see that the sleeve wings out slightly. That's not a look I'm a fan of on me.






Were the instructions easy to follow? The instructions were truly vintage, with back facing and armholes facing. I didn't go that route. My dress is fully lined, but I had to redrafted the back bodice lining to correct for the back facing (that I choose to use) and lower the lining on the front pattern piece because it's self faced. The pattern does not correct for this. The instructions follow techniques that are not as relevant with the technologies available on most machines today. They do require much more hand stitching, while on my garment only the hem is hand stitched.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? The picture on the front sold me, with that Jackie O flair! DH thinks I need a hat, but I'm not sold on that yet.






Fabric Used: A bouncy cotton poly blend. I did a couple burn tests to attempt confirmation, very slow burning, woody aroma, but the ashes didn't fall. So there's probably some poly or acetate in the percentage. Bemberg lining. Invisible zipper. I think that the rest of this fabric will be put in the circular filing bin (the trash).





Sorry, my form is leaning!





Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I had to size down 1/2 inch on the vertical seams, 6 inches off the hem. The waist fit and back darts are spot on. BTW, the waist seam is about 1 inch above my natural waist. Slightly high! Also the lining changes noted above.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I plan to sew this again, I'll probably do one more muslin... playing around with sleeve/shoulder seam darts, increasing the seam allowance so there's less sleeve or re-cutting them all together. Other considerations: reducing the armscye circumference (it's not fine not but it could be better, elongating at the shoulder seam and widening the cowl portion of the pattern for better drape. Eventually, I want to make this out of lightweight wool jersey which will be much easier to sew, IMO.

Conclusion: The sleeves are not that flattering on my arms. And the high neckline alters the proportions, balance & rule of thirds. But over all I do like it! Especially, with the asymmetrical neckline + brooch. I couldn't ask for a better fit on a first try vintage pattern.





It's twisted & shorter! Tip of the day from Threads Insider Techniques DVD (I haven't watched every part but I found this little sparkling gem in the collar unit on the main menu. I also re-learned this little gem after completing this project). BTW, I highly recommend watching this if you haven't seen it yet. And If you don't want own it, make sure your local library does!)

B on B, bigger on the bottom, bias on the bottom! When sewing with bias, put it next to the feed dogs because they 'eat'. The pressed foot pushes the fabric. This will assure that both pieces of fabric will end up the same length.

I believe that this was an issue on this dress because the front bodice is cut on the bias. So at the side seams and shoulder seams there is that potential for wonkyness!! Some seams are good, others...no do much.

I'd like to hear your thoughts on this. Is this dress it wearable? How do you sew bias? Do you follow the B on B principle? Or does it just work out for you? Suggestions?





- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad