29.7.10

Minnie Penny Pant, Vogue 1039, #3

Well that was easy...






So what's new?

This time I did the 1 inch front thigh alteration. This shall be my standard.





And a full seat alteration. I followed the instructions from the threads DVD. It's about 1/3 inch, should have done 1/2 inch. This prevents that horrible peek-a-boo from the back view!





Same pocket construction with the zig-zagstitch. I used polka dot cotton for the pockets and finished them the French way!





I only made 4 belt loops this time (not in the pattern) two on the front and two on the back. Installed the zipper in the back too. Kinda weird, but I have a pair like that and I like them. The trick is so shorten the zipper so it doesn't end up you know where! So I cut mine to 6 inches. Just right!

I also cut the waistband down to a normal, RTW width. lowered the waist band by 1.5 inches. It seems that most of the pant patterns that I've tried, which is not that many, the rise and the waistband often hits my sternum! I know, I'm petite, but why do the pattern companies follow the trends for every other garment (dresses, blouses etc.) except pants. However, this pattern does provide a place to adjust the pant rise and 2 other adjustment lines for altering the leg length. On this pair I shortened at the thigh 1/2 inch. The rest of the work is in the waistband.

The side seams & inseams were machine stitched, serged and then pressed to the back.





I'm liking the back zip detail! I used more of the polka dot fabric to finish the zipper. Hong Kong finished on all sides. It's an important feature when the zipper's back there! I saw this feature on a St. John blouse while snoop shopping at Nordstroms. The blouse was very sheer, invisible side zipper, cowl neck floral print. It only partially caught my eye, but the inside was beautiful and that comes with a $300 price tag...on the sale rack! Anyhow, I'll use this finish when I make a sheer blouse, which I need to do soon to coordinate with all of my new pants.





Because the zipper is placed so, it's super reinforced! It's got a lot of work to do if you know what I'm saying! I've never stitched an invisible so close! But each side of the tape has 4 rows of stitching, including a baste stitch. It will not fail me!





The leg is slimmed compared to the first sample but not as fitted in the leg compared to the second sample.

Inspiration: Pretty close, except my pockets are better, well I like them better. The inspiration version has back welt pockets. Speaking of welts, it's my personal goal this year to master the welt, all kinds of welts, even the Kenneth D. King versions! I know it takes lots of practice, and that's exactly what I will do!





Fabric Used: Charcoal gray stretch (I'm guessing about 3% Lycra ) cotton twill (Haberman's). Of course I think it's J.Crew fabric, it came in with the same shipment but not labeled. They feel so comfortable!

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I probably will not do these pants and time soon. Although if I did, it would be a 3 hour project, yea! But I do highly recommend this pattern!

So let's compare:

















Conclusion: I liked the process of sewing the same pant pattern in sequence. Applying new alteration techniques is an enjoyable process, especially when you get it right! To explore the same pattern repeatedly opens the door to mastery. I now know that I will have to apply some alteration to any pant pattern that I sew.

I have plans to apply the same process for front fly trouser style pants, for the experience and knowledge retention, when the weather cools, if I can find a pattern that I like. Definitely, give this one a try if you are looking for a slim or skinny pant! Will you try this pattern? Watcha think?






- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

17 comments:

  1. Those pants look great on you! I love what you did with the zipper.

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  2. I think it's a great idea to sew the same pattern multiple times and in sequence. This way you can fine tune any fit issues as well as hone in technical sewing skills. I think each pair looks great on you and that you did a nice job!

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  3. Hi Lynelle, see I posted (PR) in 2 weeks! Taking the time to work on the fit was priceless in this process, I could probably make 5 more and still learn something new. And especially with pants since I don't sew them that often. Thanks for stopping by and commenting!

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  4. Great job and I see you put alot of time into them and it was worth it!

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  5. Wow, great job! I am inspired by how you stayed with this pattern and made it 3 times to get it just right! I hope I have this kind of patience with my sewing some day. The final pair looks awesome and well worth the effort.

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  6. Great pants Girl!!!! It's great you were able to tweak them to perfection. I admire your relentlessness. It truly paid off!!!

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  7. I really like your pants!!! and this is a great post! I learned a lot about sewing sequence and never thought about it before. But it truly makes a lot of sense! I need more experience/practice in making pants too. Thanks for the tips and as always, beautiful work! Question, version 3 pants are cotton twill, is there any stretch in the fabric?

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  8. Great job and excellent review of your fitting process. Love the Hong Kong zipper.

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  9. Thanks Kimberlee B! By the time I finished the hem on the third pair, I didn't even want to think about pants any more! I'm excited about my next dress! But is was worth it!

    Hi Mushywear, I'm glad I don't have to go through this process with basic tops, dresses or skirts! I think I wanted these pants really bad! I have a cousin who sews really really well and made all the bridesmaids dresses (7) and a wedding dress for another cousin, same wedding. I was a teen back then and she asked me why don't I like to sew. My response was that I don't have the patience! I've come a long way, although I still have my limits. Thanks for stopping by!

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  10. Thanks Victoria! How nice of you to say!

    Myra, there is absolutely stretch in there. Im not sure about the percentage but comparing to other pants, its about 3%. I'll have to correct that! I would totally feel like a sausage in casing without the stretch! Thanks for stopping by!

    Thanks Cennetta! It was about time I took advantage of the fitting knowledge out there. I'm glad I can share!

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  11. Great fitting pants. Very nice looking. Like the white top as well.

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  12. These pants are a really difficult style to attempt to make (I'm sure wide legs would have been much easier), and you were able to make them look perfect. Awesome job! Thanks for the helpful construction tips. You look so great in these! I like how you styled them w/ the longer top and heels.

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  13. Bravo on fitting a pair of pants. This frustrated me so much (apparently I have the shortest crotch rise in the history of womankind-most pants end up around my armpits!) I gave up and copied a pair of ready wear that fit me.

    The pants look great on you.

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  14. Thanks Linda! Yea I don't know who would want to wear their pants so high! This was a good pattern but a perfect one! Alterations were mandatory! I'm planning on copying a pair too, but I need a break from pants at the moment. Great idea. Glad you stopped by!

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  15. Outstanding, you have so much talent!

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