Showing posts with label dress. Show all posts
Showing posts with label dress. Show all posts

6.8.10

Distressed Autumn Library dress, Vogue 1190

Orchids!




Why did I choose this pattern?. I really liked this pattern because it was another new shape for me. A break away from the sheath again. There is nothing in my closet that comes close to this dress! The skirt has a bit of hem flare but it wasn't too wide in the hips or at the hem.

Pattern Description & sizing:




How do I look? There aren't enough modifications for it to look different than the line drawing, basically twins right? It's a bit low in the front, but not crazy. I'll add a snap later.









The instructions & construction! Wow! The instructions are very clear and straight forward. Vogue classifies this pattern an easy, and it is! The beginner can do this (depending on fabric choice), especially if there are no major alterations needed. Most of all, I loved the construction, it's really beautiful inside and out! The front bodice has 2 lower edge pleats, vertical and horizontal bust darts. The horizontal buts dart is exposed so I stitched it in bubble gum pink so it could be seen! Another great feature is that all vertical seams are french seamed. So, no serger needed. Everything is enclosed! But because I microwaved this one, inside all of my French seam is a serged seam. Blame it on the fabric, more on that later.



Favorite things about the pattern? My favorite pattern surprise? A hong kong finished zipper! I was so happy to see this, and it was a breeze to finish since I just used this technique on my Minnie Penny pocket pant #3! I didn't use bias tape as suggested, I used my fashion fabric.


What scared me the most? Completing the French seam first on the center back seam and then inserting the zipper! I chose to follow the directions and it turned out very well. The key is to clip just above the finished French seam to the the zipper SA will freely lay flat. Because of my fabric type, I use a bit of fusible on the fashion fabric before I clipped so it didn't get hairy!

My Fashion Fabric: Oh my! After shopping my stash, I didn't find anything that really worked. So off to the store! Because of the uniqueness of the dress I wanted to push myself in the print department. Easy road: silky animal print...i almost went there! But after trying something out, I choose this quirky pretty print.

Every piece of fabric that I buy has to pass 2 HLT tests. 1) does it look good on me in the mirror? Yes, I'll either bring my own or search for one to use in the store. 2) Will it photograph well? Albeit flouresent, most fabric stores have adequate lighting to prevent trips and falls. But I'll whip out my iPhone and take a picture of it and look at it. Of course it's going to be bad because there no flash and cheap store lighting! But that's the point. If the fabric still looks great in those conditions, it's basically in the bag. (these are not the only HLT fabric test, there's touchy, feely, rub, rub stretch test & fabric content guessing, and a couple others)




This fabric has so many colors. As you can see I tried to swatch them, but I'm probably only at 80%. The comprehensive tones happen to be just right. It's interesting that some of the colors individually would look very bad with my skin tone. Yes, it's polyester, but I'm not mad. Sheer, light, flowy. The weight is much like the Sweet ruffles blouse, but the texture is smoother. It's raw edge can get very hairy, that's why I serged!

My contrast waistband is black poly crinkle from my stash. I haven't made the bow yet, but I might. And if I do it will be a pin, not sewn on. Sometimes I don't feel like a bow. Navy invisible zipper.

Changes I made: Only 1 for fitting. I cut 1.5 inches off the front bodice shoulder. Clearly, I don't have a super long torso, so I have to adjust.

Transition styling: added cardigan. This looks great with my navy polka dot peep toes!








Future pattern plans? Yes, I want to sew it again! This would make a really great LBD. I'm also thinking about knit possibilities, sans zipper. Or, just modifying the back so that there's full coverage.








Final thoughts: . I love it! It's different. I was thinking... Would I have given this dress a second look at the department store, even if I was snoop shopping? Would it have enough hanger appeal to bring me to the rack? Probably not. But it looks great on!









I was in this dress all day in the big apple! It's also great for wading in the humidity. Nothings worse in the summer weather than feeling glued into your clothes. This dress has a flirty style and a swingy hem. Oh, I also didn't topstitch my ruffles down as suggested. Not a time issue, just a design issue. It's just me, I think it takes away from the ruffle bounce! But even in the wind my ruffles didn't let me down.

HLT recommend additions: strapless undergarments! I might try placing undergarment modesty loops at the shoulder & at the back bodice...zipper level. I think that will work for those highly specialized undergarments.

It's a great Tracy Reese pattern, it's unique, fun and flirty. I'm glad that I pushed the edges of time a bit to get this dress done...I wouldn't have this pattern yet if I didn't BMV. BTW, the vogues are on sale at the 'J' this weekend. I wouldn't be wearing this dress if I waited for this sale! I'm even happier about my fabric choice!








Thanks for coming over!








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1.8.10

Fresh out of the microwave! ... Tracy Reese Vogue 1190 dress!

Or toaster oven...




This dress is awesome! There's so much so say but in short, this is a great pattern! Great design & construction! But there's good news and not so good news. The good: my microwave was working overtime today and this dress I'd nearly done! Just the final touches remain and shes ready for lights! I'm very happy about at least one Vogue getting sewed up, because I will not have much time this week for sewing. The not so good part: No pics of me in the dress till Friday, sorry favorite readers. When you see the pics you'll totally understand why I waited and left the boring Martha Stewart Dove wall alone this time. Sew, it was a good day!

That's all!



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25.7.10

The Mad Men effect

It's true, sometimes I watch TV just for the fashion!

Mad Men costume designer, Janie Bryant has done a great job creating great styles that are classic and what we want to wear for fall. The timing is perfect! And now is a great time to hunt for those vintage patterns circa 1964! Here's my pattern pics:

Just drop the sleeves!








Sans collar!








Add a petticoat! Bottom of V8020 &top of V857.








Choose either one!








Do you plan pull your style from the networks for fall? Maybe just one thing?!








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20.7.10

McCalls vintage 7003 circa 1963

1st muslin!






Pattern pictures: I'm loving the indigo ink!

Front Bodice





Up close of the front bodice





Front bodice darts





Back bodice





Skirt back with double darts





Pattern Description:
Cowl neck, drop-shoulder dress with slim or lightly flared three-gore skirt. Bodice front is bias, has chain weight underneath cowl drape. Flared skirt is cathered at the side back and side front. Slim skirt has side front pleats, slow back pleat. Either version has center back zipper and may be lined.

Pattern Sizing: 14, 34 bust. This is a one size pattern. I probably could do well with a size 12 because I graded everything down 1/2 inch.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Almost. The drape is not as dramatic as I had hoped, but If you look closely at the pattern photo you'll see that the sleeve wings out slightly. That's not a look I'm a fan of on me.






Were the instructions easy to follow? The instructions were truly vintage, with back facing and armholes facing. I didn't go that route. My dress is fully lined, but I had to redrafted the back bodice lining to correct for the back facing (that I choose to use) and lower the lining on the front pattern piece because it's self faced. The pattern does not correct for this. The instructions follow techniques that are not as relevant with the technologies available on most machines today. They do require much more hand stitching, while on my garment only the hem is hand stitched.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? The picture on the front sold me, with that Jackie O flair! DH thinks I need a hat, but I'm not sold on that yet.






Fabric Used: A bouncy cotton poly blend. I did a couple burn tests to attempt confirmation, very slow burning, woody aroma, but the ashes didn't fall. So there's probably some poly or acetate in the percentage. Bemberg lining. Invisible zipper. I think that the rest of this fabric will be put in the circular filing bin (the trash).





Sorry, my form is leaning!





Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I had to size down 1/2 inch on the vertical seams, 6 inches off the hem. The waist fit and back darts are spot on. BTW, the waist seam is about 1 inch above my natural waist. Slightly high! Also the lining changes noted above.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I plan to sew this again, I'll probably do one more muslin... playing around with sleeve/shoulder seam darts, increasing the seam allowance so there's less sleeve or re-cutting them all together. Other considerations: reducing the armscye circumference (it's not fine not but it could be better, elongating at the shoulder seam and widening the cowl portion of the pattern for better drape. Eventually, I want to make this out of lightweight wool jersey which will be much easier to sew, IMO.

Conclusion: The sleeves are not that flattering on my arms. And the high neckline alters the proportions, balance & rule of thirds. But over all I do like it! Especially, with the asymmetrical neckline + brooch. I couldn't ask for a better fit on a first try vintage pattern.





It's twisted & shorter! Tip of the day from Threads Insider Techniques DVD (I haven't watched every part but I found this little sparkling gem in the collar unit on the main menu. I also re-learned this little gem after completing this project). BTW, I highly recommend watching this if you haven't seen it yet. And If you don't want own it, make sure your local library does!)

B on B, bigger on the bottom, bias on the bottom! When sewing with bias, put it next to the feed dogs because they 'eat'. The pressed foot pushes the fabric. This will assure that both pieces of fabric will end up the same length.

I believe that this was an issue on this dress because the front bodice is cut on the bias. So at the side seams and shoulder seams there is that potential for wonkyness!! Some seams are good, others...no do much.

I'd like to hear your thoughts on this. Is this dress it wearable? How do you sew bias? Do you follow the B on B principle? Or does it just work out for you? Suggestions?





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11.6.10

FBR 4 V8630, It's not a robot, it's a dress!


Pattern Description: Lined dress, sleeveless or with 3/4 length sleeves, back zipper, and large collar. I made view without the collar.

Pattern Sizing: 6-12

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, except for the collar. One reason I wanted it without the collar is because I'm a cardiaholic. It makes it more versatile for me.



Were the instructions easy to follow? Didn't even look at them.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I really like the bateau neckline of this pattern. There's nothing out there like. It except for vintage patterns & that's the look of inspiration.

Fabric Used: Stretch cotton sateen from JoAnns, and lining.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Well, well, well! Just when I thought, great easy dress, only 4 pattern pieces to use, I had to reset both waist darts on the front upper and lower pattern pieces. Don't normally have to do that with Butterick or McCalls. I'm not complaining too much, having to grade the waist down a couple of sizes is nice.

Anyhow, when I first started reading PR years ago, it was cool seeing all the beautiful FBAs, sliced and diced, then realizing that will probably not ever be my path, unless I choose to start sewing children's wear for myself (eww) or I surgically alter my body to require a FBA! LOL! Learning how to move or remove darts is a similar skill that's great for your toolbox though. So basically this ended up being a FBR, full bust reduction. A little sad maybe? Nope. My other option is to leave it as a potato sack shift dress. I think not!

So now I'm wondering if all those undergarment fit specialist are so very wrong, and the tags on my undergarments must be lying to me. B, B, B! That's what they say. So, my personal conclusion to the bust/bodice matter is, the pattern dart sizes are a bit off.

I was inspired by:


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? No, no readers I'm done here. Moderately recommended, if you're not in a cup size crisis. Otherwise, this is a great beginner pattern, especially sans collar.

Conclusion: I really like the neckline of this dress. And I think this belt really helps.




Simple black crinkled chiffon cut into 1/2 inch strips or less, bind and sews onto 2 inch elastic I found on eBay. The other flower is purchased trim, poly chiffon, with satin edging. Machine basted and attached to the belt. Velcro closure. I know, I know! Couldn't wait for my snaps to arrive. For shame! But it's heavy duty and it works!










Jcrew Elastic blossoms belt: $42.50.



Total time to complete, for the dress only, from 1st cut to final steam:


BTW, this was not a race for me, but more an evaluation of my time spent/quality & cost. Was it worth it? Do tell me your thoughts.


30.5.10

SATC2: Charlotte York Goldblatt & Dress Homage M5455


"Park Avenue Pollyanna," as coined by Carrie Bradshaw, has the most conservative style amongst her girlfriends. It's prim a proper with a twist of trendiness and a dash of who's that old lady! The pink suit/dress is by Dior, love the designers concept but the color is so heartburn, nausea, indigestion, upset stomach...you know the rest. I would/maybe so copy that in a gray or black in a minute. Speaking of which, now is the time to get the fall stuff in line, but more on that in another post. Obvi, the green and white number is a throw back to the 80s it's so LP, Lilly Pulitzer. I'm really dying over the emerald ruffled shirt dress. I do need that dress in my life. This is on my list for summer dress hopefuls, with a little less hip and a bit more fit. Conservtively sassy! Lastly, the red and white strapless dress... Love, love! More on that a little further down.



The soft washed emerald tone strapless dress is divine! Straight from the penthouse right?


The homage: Yes, B5455 again! But it ended up with a very different look for a different event. Aside from Cynthia Steffes' strapless dress by Vogue, I've been searching for a strapless sheath pattern for a while. Most of the patterns I've come across have a full skirt or are A-line. So I went back to my fave dress of the summer so far and subtracted the straps to make it work... for me.

So here are the changes:

I redrafted the top portion of the front bust pattern piece to make it strapless. Included most of the pattern pleats to an extent, which would mean that I will eventually have to ease out the difference for a good fit. The bust piece measures 5 inches in the center and 3 on the sides, vertically. On top edge, there are 12 mini darts hand placed and measured. The bottom edge had 2 pleats and 2 mini darts, one on each side, closer to the side seams.

The back bodice was modified as well but it was much easier. There is one dart on each side, as the pattern calls for. That didn't change, but after finishing the front bust and midriff with piping I remeasured for the back bodice and added 1/2 inch for the piping on the top and bottom. Piping around the top edge. Fusible horsehair (I highly recommend this for serious yet flexible stability) was used on the front midriff and plastic boning at the side seams. I would have liked to be more creative with the bust piece, but I think this works. Slightly widened the front skirt. Everything else is the same.

Fabric: Fabric Used: Red rose printed cotton stretch sateen from Habermans. 1/8 cording used. Invisable zipper. Fusible horsehair. Plastic boning.







Simply styled.




Whatcha think.

20.5.10

Hot shoulder, cool color! M5658


I've been wanting to sew this up for a long time, and it's finally here! There's a lot of navy in my wardrobe, but not a print like this. And I probably have enough left over for a skirt. Very happy about that!

There are a couple design issues with this pattern. The a back right dart is the same length as the left left dart. On the muslin this did not work because there was still room for shaping on the right side. So I increased the length of the dart by 1 inch. Luckily I'm working with a print so it not so bothersome, but it could be an issue if you're working with a solid. Another issue with this pattern is that it's just trying to be to many things. A one shoulder (side zip), a chocker neck (back center zip), a strapless dress (back center zip). And standing alone, none of them are truly great. So there should have been a additional pattern piece for the lower back bodice to be cut on the fold, IMO. It would totally add to the chicness. Instead there is a center back seam that would look more oddly placed on a solid colored fabric. And then lastly, the issued with the shoulder band. It's just to wide and chunky.



So basically, I won't be sewing this one up again, but clearly I'm happy with the results!


Styled: Vacay 4-star dinner


Lovin' it?

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