Vintage UNI-PRESSBOARD

Gifted!


Verbatim in print:

Combines:
Sleeve board
Point presser
Edge presser
Ham
Clapper
-into one super-useful space saving UNIT

Edge pressed and seam board:
For ease in using the seam press area, place the board on it's side. An outstanding feature is the rounded edge along the seam presser area which eliminates seam line from forming indentations on a garment while seams are being pressed open



Pressing Block or Clapper:
The bottom of the entire board has been sanded with smooth rounded edges to form a pressing block. When the bottom is used as a clapper the rounded edges keep sharp pounding marks from appearing on the finished garment. Use the narrow sleeveboard as a convenient hand-hold while pounding.


Point presser:
The seam presser section is sharply tapered to a point. Press collar, pocket and lapel seam points open over this section to get a neat, perfect point.


Pressing ham:
The gentle taper and added padding at the large end of the board forms a convenient pressing ham. Darts, undercollars and other areas may be shaped over the ham sections where a separate ham or press mitt was formerly needed.



Sleeve board:
The padded top forms a sleeve board. The rounded edges of he board avoid marks appearing on the finished garment.


This is what I use for most of my tailoring. It was gifted from my mother about 1 year ago and I really use it frequently. I think she purchased it in the mid-70s so it carries a nice patina. I need to make a new cover for it soon, I didn't photograph that, but it's made of a thick cotton knit, same color. I've never used the point turner as it's lost it's point, but I'm starting to use the bottom as a clapper. I probably should sand it a bit too.

This UNI was made by a lady in Indiana. I've not been able to contact her or find and information about the board on the net. Do you have a vintage UNI-PRESSBOARD? What are you using?

Thanks for reading!!


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McCalls vintage 7003 circa 1963

1st muslin!






Pattern pictures: I'm loving the indigo ink!

Front Bodice





Up close of the front bodice





Front bodice darts





Back bodice





Skirt back with double darts





Pattern Description:
Cowl neck, drop-shoulder dress with slim or lightly flared three-gore skirt. Bodice front is bias, has chain weight underneath cowl drape. Flared skirt is cathered at the side back and side front. Slim skirt has side front pleats, slow back pleat. Either version has center back zipper and may be lined.

Pattern Sizing: 14, 34 bust. This is a one size pattern. I probably could do well with a size 12 because I graded everything down 1/2 inch.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Almost. The drape is not as dramatic as I had hoped, but If you look closely at the pattern photo you'll see that the sleeve wings out slightly. That's not a look I'm a fan of on me.






Were the instructions easy to follow? The instructions were truly vintage, with back facing and armholes facing. I didn't go that route. My dress is fully lined, but I had to redrafted the back bodice lining to correct for the back facing (that I choose to use) and lower the lining on the front pattern piece because it's self faced. The pattern does not correct for this. The instructions follow techniques that are not as relevant with the technologies available on most machines today. They do require much more hand stitching, while on my garment only the hem is hand stitched.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? The picture on the front sold me, with that Jackie O flair! DH thinks I need a hat, but I'm not sold on that yet.






Fabric Used: A bouncy cotton poly blend. I did a couple burn tests to attempt confirmation, very slow burning, woody aroma, but the ashes didn't fall. So there's probably some poly or acetate in the percentage. Bemberg lining. Invisible zipper. I think that the rest of this fabric will be put in the circular filing bin (the trash).





Sorry, my form is leaning!





Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I had to size down 1/2 inch on the vertical seams, 6 inches off the hem. The waist fit and back darts are spot on. BTW, the waist seam is about 1 inch above my natural waist. Slightly high! Also the lining changes noted above.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I plan to sew this again, I'll probably do one more muslin... playing around with sleeve/shoulder seam darts, increasing the seam allowance so there's less sleeve or re-cutting them all together. Other considerations: reducing the armscye circumference (it's not fine not but it could be better, elongating at the shoulder seam and widening the cowl portion of the pattern for better drape. Eventually, I want to make this out of lightweight wool jersey which will be much easier to sew, IMO.

Conclusion: The sleeves are not that flattering on my arms. And the high neckline alters the proportions, balance & rule of thirds. But over all I do like it! Especially, with the asymmetrical neckline + brooch. I couldn't ask for a better fit on a first try vintage pattern.





It's twisted & shorter! Tip of the day from Threads Insider Techniques DVD (I haven't watched every part but I found this little sparkling gem in the collar unit on the main menu. I also re-learned this little gem after completing this project). BTW, I highly recommend watching this if you haven't seen it yet. And If you don't want own it, make sure your local library does!)

B on B, bigger on the bottom, bias on the bottom! When sewing with bias, put it next to the feed dogs because they 'eat'. The pressed foot pushes the fabric. This will assure that both pieces of fabric will end up the same length.

I believe that this was an issue on this dress because the front bodice is cut on the bias. So at the side seams and shoulder seams there is that potential for wonkyness!! Some seams are good, others...no do much.

I'd like to hear your thoughts on this. Is this dress it wearable? How do you sew bias? Do you follow the B on B principle? Or does it just work out for you? Suggestions?





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The rest of that animal...a skirt.

Finally, good lighting!




So, of the 3 yards total purchased I was able to squeeze this out! Its the same fabric as the painted zebra wrap dress (see post for details). The skirt is TNT pattern, super easy, B5466. This time it's fully lined, no facing, invisible back zipper.




Conclusion: Sweet! It's easy to dress it up or down and that's exactly what I like!

Just as summer arrives, I'm very ready to start a fall wardrobe. I'm planning for it, but probably won't start until late July. Until then, back to dresses! The goal in my head is pretty high, but achievable. I just need the perfect fabric.


Thanks for stopping by!

The coat with no name

So, if you haven't noticed, there is a bit of vintage talk here @b4thedoor. Growing up, I was surrounded by vintage furniture that I loved, it was everywhere. My favorite is the kidney shaped vanity & stool with a hidden drawer, so adorable. Sitting there made me feel so grown, even though my toes didn't reach the floor yet. Not to long ago, my grandmother gifted me this fabulous vintage winter coat. I wear it with pride and hope the day never comes when I will decide to take it apart piece by piece to make another one, exactly the same. I will sew and cry and sew and cry. Hmmm, is sewing my therapy? Am I making progress? Slowly, slowly. Anyway, here she is...my unnamed coat!


I did take some photos of the pockets but they didn't show the detail well at all. The flaps are faux, and the real pockets are on seam, supper hidden.


She has great back shoulder darts that peak under the collar and a double button back faux belt.


Her buttons are not what they used to be, I'm sure, but they have a unique deco feel, with the silver tone double inset details. On the inside she says Lorendale, but that's just on the inside.


So do you have a vintage something that you want to redo? Is vintage yucky & gross to you or chic, quality and fabulous? Whatcha think? I love!

Vintage A+ Pencil Skirt

Many many years ago I bought this cute yellow, cream & brown plaid A-line mini at a vintage store and wore it very often that summer. I was so young the skirt was hardly short enough! LOL! Ahhhh, remember when? But since it was vintage, I left the hem alone. Anyway I haven't let it go, as I tend to keep really old fab stuff. When I bought this I remember asking if they knew the brand of the skirt, but there was no tag inside. So when I was looking in my closet for some vintage inspiration this came to mind 1st. Originally, the skirt had 5 buttons down the front, but the proportions were wrong for my petite frame, so I removed 2.


I love the fabric, and haven't seen any quite like it. It's a nice cotton, brocade like because it had ridges.


As I continued my skirt investigation the binding and the hand stitching caught my eye, then the buttons. Then I realized I have a vintage skirt that someone made in their home many years ago!

You can find it on Flickr, 7026 by Simplicity. Thanks to SurrendrDorothy for posting and providing the correct pattern number. BTW, I dont actually have this pattern, my skirt was made from the skirt (view 3, with patch pockets) that was probably made from this pattern. So I traced the skirt, omitting the darts, I prefer not to have them anyhow. Adding a seam allowance and length.






Just like the vintage, I used seam binding to finish the waistband.


To confirm even further, the original button, picture below, top left, is the same as a current LaPetite buttons I found with a slightly different patina. But I liked the brighter ones...the complement my shoes right?


The fabric is silk from Lemon Creek Fabrics.


Used a invisible zipper as usual, and I just love the back tab! Might have to use this detail more often. Self drafted and interfaced with fusible.


Ultimately, the pockets had to stay far away. Cute on the mini, not so chic on my almost A-line pencil skirt. Besides the back tab the other interesting detail is the front faux opening/pleat. Modest detailing.


For GodsgirlT,
This skirt is finish able in 2-3 hours sdepending not the sewing speed.  Drafting the tab and inserting the zipper required the most time. It might looK like it took more than a couple hours but I believe that's the result of the silk fabric and gold tone notions, that really make is all pop in a subtle classy way.  

Cutting the skirt didn't take that long because the original fit me so well.  Just a bit of tailors chalk to add seam allowance and a little length to the hem.  Here's exactly what I did, the order process:

-Trace & cut skirt (front, back and tab pieces).  Press.
-Staystitch front and back waistline. Press.
-Fold front skirt in half.  Press.  Sew front pleat (1 inch deep).  Press.
-Sew side seams.  Press.  
-Sew tab. Trim.  Press.  Turn & sew buttonhole on tab. Press.
-Sew center back (Basting zippered portion, then lock stitch.  Continue with a regular stitch to the hem.  Press.
-Remove baste stitch, insert zipper with tab.  (Layered: left back skirt, back tab, left zipper tape.  Recommendation: sew slower over tabbed area, of course use a zipper foot.
-Insert seam binding to waistline, clip curves.  Press.   
-Sew on buttons & hem. Press hem.

Thanks for asking!

Overall, I do like the look! And with the blouse (retail) it adds a nice vintage finish, almost Mad Menish look. I highly recommend vintage redos & copies with a twist if necessary. Thoughts anybody?