b4 the door

To go with what you sew: Cynthia Rowley edition

2010-09-01T22:07:00.001-04:00

CR has some really neat patterns! Her frocks are so adorable and chic, Simplicity should be really be happy to have her around! But if you didn't know it, she's creating a unique empire of out of the box necessities. Summer is basically over, but these wedges caught my eye:

Need a cute dress idea? I really like this dress, and the front flap is such a great idea + the border! Insane! Although black, brown, or gold might work better as a border color when the weather transitions. Buy the clutch or sew the clutch? There's a pattern for that too!

But wait there's more! Pretty tools with an HLT basic gift ettitque clause: Ok to buy for yourself, never ok for a that's it here's your gift unless explicitly expressed:

Wow! diapers! A pretty addition to any baby shower gift basket, especially if there's an outfit to match!

More fabulousness from CR at:
Check out her website for all the details and Fall 2010 stuff!

That's all readers!

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Black & White on the Red Carpet

2010-08-29T21:53:00.001-04:00

Hello readers! What a week it's been! I'm halfway thru a dress that I won't be able to finish until next week, unfortunately! But I'm putting the finishing touches on my early fall wardrobe plans. A nice mix of new pieces and older pieces! Anyway, I'm looking forward to more dinners, birthday parties and family gatherings this weekend. I'll be lucky to finish anything new, but I'll show you what I'm wearing!

It's amazing the amount of time these shows take, from beginning to end. I've only seen snippets, but a certain trend caught my eye. Don't get me wrong, I'm loving the bright colors, and there was one print that did make me swoon, but these stood out:

That's all!

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This might entice you, McCalls pattern sale!

2010-08-23T06:01:00.000-04:00

Readers, I received this email very early today! If you're a BMV member this is the Vogue sale for you!, especially if you shop before noon.

But that's not all, it's probably a good time for me come a member, that's on sale too! I'm very tempted to bite on this low risk deal. For my own cost analysis, I'll need to but at least 10 Vogue patterns on sale per year, and I do hope I can get a deal on some great OOPs! So this could happen!

They also rolled out their winter patterns early for McCalls, but I don't think I'll fall for these quite yet... FYI-There's a lot of shoulder power. These are my top 6!

M6201, Made-for-you

M6200

M6202, Laura Ashley blouse

M6208, sweater cardigan

M6206 jacket

M6211, Palmer Pletsch

I do hope I get some sewing done this week! That's all!

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MSG & Anna Sui

2010-08-18T18:20:00.000-04:00

I've missed the whole season...But that's ok...I was busy!

Season finale on the...

10 pm today!

From their website:
MAN SHOPS GLOBE

Claiming he has the "greatest job in the world," Keith Johnson invites viewers along on an international treasure hunt on the Sundance Channel original series, MAN SHOPS GLOBE. In out-of-the-way antique shops, private dealerships and craft stalls, Johnson looks for one-of-a-kind home furnishings and accessories.

In each half-hour program, Keith travels to a new country in search of fantastic and unusual decorative objects, furniture, and textiles. He also seeks out the world's best artists and crafts people. MAN SHOPS GLOBE follows Johnson, who travels six months of the year, to ends-of-the-earth excursions, from flea markets in Paris to remote villages in India and obscure art studios in Turkey.(Mr. Johnson is employed by Anthropologie, as far as I know.)

Readers, I'm setting the DVR again! But this time I'm very interested to hear the Anna Sui perspective on things (she is on the finale show!). She has done some great patterns with Vogue over the years (like my sweet ruffle blouse), so I'm curious to see what her other domestic interest are! In case you didn't know!

That's all!

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Blood, Sweat & T-shirts: an inside look where cheap clothing comes from.

2010-08-17T20:55:00.000-04:00

From the Planet Green Network....

These are the kids on the show!

Readers, I got lucky and found a little cable gem! It's a story of six UK kids that love to shop for cheap clothing, then travel to India and get a rewind experience of where the garments come from. Spoiled to the core, this docu-reality series leads them through the sweatshop way of living in India.

PAUSE

I had to do a mental closet check of where I shop. For most collage students and kids in their early 20s love to shop at that popular forever store for clothing, I know I did. And honestly, I'll still hunt there for belts especially, because they actually fit me. Now I shop as high quality as I can afford. But what if it comes from the same place?

PLAY

The Indian tailors get paid about 10 cents for garments that sell for 15-20 dollars. In one particular episode the youth sleep in a sweatshop and must complete a quotient of garments for the day. They make the kids (self centered ones from the UK) sew! It's cute to see them struggle on the machines!

PAUSE

I want an industrial sewing machine!

PLAY

Once they are finished, they must present their garments for inspection. After bringing in the bag of blouses the youth understand how much hard work goes into each piece, over and over, so thousands of people in another country can wear the same blouse. Out of their goal of 36, only 15 were completed correctly. The average wage for the tailors is 5 pounds for 400 garments!

PAUSE

It's a bit reality show but with a heavier dose of reality than show, but very watchable with a dash of ignorance. Maybe after sewing consistently for a couple of years, I've come to appreciate my skills, but I'm not doing 400 garments per year either!

Another thought favorite readers, where does our cheap fabric come from? I often take a quick iPhone pic of the fabric label for my records and I don't recall seeing where the fabric was made. Are we sewing ourselves into an un-green situation?

This show airs at various times, so check your listings! I recommend at least 1 episode to jet the gist. Their are 4 one hour shows. I do hope that you can watch at least 1 episode.

I'd really love to hear your thought and insight!

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Dress Update: HLT pattern 103, Distorted Plank dress

2010-08-16T23:59:00.000-04:00

Here she is so far!

First, I'd like to say that my form and I don't share the same bust size, and I did not pull out the strapless for the photo. To tired. I'm pretty much finished with the front piece. At the bust line there are 3 pleats that are stitched closed until the high waist line. My plan is to edge stitch the pleats so they hold a crisp line, but still add a little movement. You can see my pins still holding them in place.

I added non-symmetric horizontal and vertical bust darts. They aren't symmetric because of the diagonal pleats at the bustline but they work.

This is the lower front portion of the dress.

So my goal with this fabric was to attempt to distort the lines with pleats and darts. I've mostly achieved that in the front, but the back panel...with the curves and all...I have more work to do, as I don't want 2 stereotypical back darts. My idea of diagonal darts, does pose an interesting situation of bias-ness that's not usually encountered.

I started this project wanting a jumpstart back into sewing, and it's done the trick! For those of you wondering. I've used no books for the drape/draft of this project. That may be very obvi to some! Just an idea and my experience. It's an unknown adventure, without a pretty picture to guide me, I'm making it work as I go!

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Look Ma, No Pattern!

2010-08-15T23:14:00.000-04:00

Ok, readers! I've made some head way with the black and cream print! Surprisingly,I'm draping and it's going pretty well, considering I have absolutely no training in doing so! The shape is quite straight forward with a hint of detail, nothing to complicated. So at some point tomorrow I'll show you my progress, finished or not. Thanks for stopping by!

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Another Microwave Sunday! And Museum Photos!

2010-08-15T11:08:00.000-04:00

Except this time I have no idea what's going to come out!

I'd like to sew up some summer fabric, especially since it's still steaming hot around here. And I'd hate to make the fabric wait till next year.... But lately, it's been really difficult to make up my mind; Thai or Indian, curly or straight, Bare Essentials or Lancome, flip-flops or ballet flats, cotton or rayon Lycra, Draft it myself or Vogue it?! It's giving me a headache!

So I'm going into my space today feeling optimistic and indecisive! Due to my travels I haven't sewed a thing since V1190! Sad. And I'm feeling a bit out of sync. Post hiatus, I like to do a warm up tank top or cardigan. Maybe that's where I'll start, but I'm also feeling like a dress...long or short? Who knows?

Well, while in NYC I did a bit of American couture browsing at Oscar de la Renta. Readers, I wasn't picking anything up for my next event, just visiting one of my favorite artist work in a simply stated gallery, museum like, except touching is allowed. Little did I know that DH was photographing me while I was swooned and sugar plums danced in my head! Inspiring!

There are no simple dresses here. Every item had thousands of details. Embroidery so finely done it looks like a print. Beadwork so finely finished, fabrics from the finest mills. This was way better than the MET, for me!

Until later!

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Vintage UNI-PRESSBOARD

2010-08-11T04:55:00.001-04:00

Gifted!

Verbatim in print:

Combines:
Sleeve board
Point presser
Edge presser
Ham
Clapper
-into one super-useful space saving UNIT

Edge pressed and seam board:
For ease in using the seam press area, place the board on it's side. An outstanding feature is the rounded edge along the seam presser area which eliminates seam line from forming indentations on a garment while seams are being pressed open

Pressing Block or Clapper:
The bottom of the entire board has been sanded with smooth rounded edges to form a pressing block. When the bottom is used as a clapper the rounded edges keep sharp pounding marks from appearing on the finished garment. Use the narrow sleeveboard as a convenient hand-hold while pounding.

Point presser:
The seam presser section is sharply tapered to a point. Press collar, pocket and lapel seam points open over this section to get a neat, perfect point.

Pressing ham:
The gentle taper and added padding at the large end of the board forms a convenient pressing ham. Darts, undercollars and other areas may be shaped over the ham sections where a separate ham or press mitt was formerly needed.

Sleeve board:
The padded top forms a sleeve board. The rounded edges of he board avoid marks appearing on the finished garment.

This is what I use for most of my tailoring. It was gifted from my mother about 1 year ago and I really use it frequently. I think she purchased it in the mid-70s so it carries a nice patina. I need to make a new cover for it soon, I didn't photograph that, but it's made of a thick cotton knit, same color. I've never used the point turner as it's lost it's point, but I'm starting to use the bottom as a clapper. I probably should sand it a bit too.

This UNI was made by a lady in Indiana. I've not been able to contact her or find and information about the board on the net. Do you have a vintage UNI-PRESSBOARD? What are you using?

Thanks for reading!!

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Ignored, Seamingly

2010-08-09T14:04:00.000-04:00

Back in May, during my normal sewing and design blog surfing I noticed these burgundy buttons for Seamingly.com on blog sites. Most of you should know about it by now, but here's their about page:

So if you haven't been to Seamingly yet, it's a bloglist of creative DIYers, dressmakers, designers and crafters, mostly savy sewist. Some are hugely popular and others are unknown to me. Like an encyclopedia of some of the best blogs out there! Grosgrain, Male Pattern Boldness, Diary of a sewing fanatic, Erica B.! Great! So after a couple return visits and finding a great post on the site on other blogs, I decide that I'd like to join in.

So around the first week in June, I scroll to the bottom, tap on the link, fill out the form and tap to submit b4thedoor. The thank you screen pops up and a note stating that they will make contact in 2 days. So to me, that means 48 hours exactly. I patiently wait and wait and wait and wait and wait and wait and wait and wait and wait and wait and wait and wait and wait and wait and wait and wait and wait and wait and wait and wait and wait and wait. Patiently. Let's look at the calendar readers. It's August! And they have said nothing. No email. No call. Silence from Seamingly.

One of the issues that I now have it that they do not tell you the criterion of how they select who's in and who's out. I'd really like to know. I have my own personal ideas, but am I the only one who has been ignored. I could ramble on and on about the reasons why but I'd like to hear from you my favorite readers! You're experienced and savvy! And this is what I want to know:
Did you submit your own application or did someone else (like a follower or reader)? If you were accepted, what communication did you receive? Did seamingly send a rejection e-mail to you? Are you receiving the silent treatment like b4thedoor? Should I try and submit again? Should I forget about it?

Readers, please don't pity me and send an application on my behalf. Please don't. I want hear from Seamingly.com about the facts from them.

I'm not hating on those who are in...I've been following their blogs, and admired their mastery since before I had a blog via rss feeds. You're inspirational! So it's not that at all.

Lastly, about those voting buttons, I'm guessing that they will pass along some code once you receive their 'welcome packet', then you can customize it to your website. And the more your readership votes the higher your site moves on the Seamingly.com blog list. Are you popular? Are you cool with the kids?

This week I have plans to freshen up the place, I know, it could be prettier, but I don't know code, I know fabric, so it may take more like 7 months than 7 days. I'm trying readers!

So, in addition to my previous list of questions, I'm opening the door to some honest witty feedback mostly, constructive tidbits if you will, but don't get anonymous crazy. Be bold.

That's all.

Distressed Autumn Library dress, Vogue 1190

2010-08-06T09:02:00.000-04:00

Orchids!

Why did I choose this pattern?. I really liked this pattern because it was another new shape for me. A break away from the sheath again. There is nothing in my closet that comes close to this dress! The skirt has a bit of hem flare but it wasn't too wide in the hips or at the hem.

Pattern Description & sizing:

How do I look? There aren't enough modifications for it to look different than the line drawing, basically twins right? It's a bit low in the front, but not crazy. I'll add a snap later.

The instructions & construction! Wow! The instructions are very clear and straight forward. Vogue classifies this pattern an easy, and it is! The beginner can do this (depending on fabric choice), especially if there are no major alterations needed. Most of all, I loved the construction, it's really beautiful inside and out! The front bodice has 2 lower edge pleats, vertical and horizontal bust darts. The horizontal buts dart is exposed so I stitched it in bubble gum pink so it could be seen! Another great feature is that all vertical seams are french seamed. So, no serger needed. Everything is enclosed! But because I microwaved this one, inside all of my French seam is a serged seam. Blame it on the fabric, more on that later.

Favorite things about the pattern? My favorite pattern surprise? A hong kong finished zipper! I was so happy to see this, and it was a breeze to finish since I just used this technique on my Minnie Penny pocket pant #3! I didn't use bias tape as suggested, I used my fashion fabric.

What scared me the most? Completing the French seam first on the center back seam and then inserting the zipper! I chose to follow the directions and it turned out very well. The key is to clip just above the finished French seam to the the zipper SA will freely lay flat. Because of my fabric type, I use a bit of fusible on the fashion fabric before I clipped so it didn't get hairy!

My Fashion Fabric: Oh my! After shopping my stash, I didn't find anything that really worked. So off to the store! Because of the uniqueness of the dress I wanted to push myself in the print department. Easy road: silky animal print...i almost went there! But after trying something out, I choose this quirky pretty print.

Every piece of fabric that I buy has to pass 2 HLT tests. 1) does it look good on me in the mirror? Yes, I'll either bring my own or search for one to use in the store. 2) Will it photograph well? Albeit flouresent, most fabric stores have adequate lighting to prevent trips and falls. But I'll whip out my iPhone and take a picture of it and look at it. Of course it's going to be bad because there no flash and cheap store lighting! But that's the point. If the fabric still looks great in those conditions, it's basically in the bag. (these are not the only HLT fabric test, there's touchy, feely, rub, rub stretch test & fabric content guessing, and a couple others)

This fabric has so many colors. As you can see I tried to swatch them, but I'm probably only at 80%. The comprehensive tones happen to be just right. It's interesting that some of the colors individually would look very bad with my skin tone. Yes, it's polyester, but I'm not mad. Sheer, light, flowy. The weight is much like the Sweet ruffles blouse, but the texture is smoother. It's raw edge can get very hairy, that's why I serged!

My contrast waistband is black poly crinkle from my stash. I haven't made the bow yet, but I might. And if I do it will be a pin, not sewn on. Sometimes I don't feel like a bow. Navy invisible zipper.

Changes I made: Only 1 for fitting. I cut 1.5 inches off the front bodice shoulder. Clearly, I don't have a super long torso, so I have to adjust.

Transition styling: added cardigan. This looks great with my navy polka dot peep toes!

Future pattern plans? Yes, I want to sew it again! This would make a really great LBD. I'm also thinking about knit possibilities, sans zipper. Or, just modifying the back so that there's full coverage.

Final thoughts: . I love it! It's different. I was thinking... Would I have given this dress a second look at the department store, even if I was snoop shopping? Would it have enough hanger appeal to bring me to the rack? Probably not. But it looks great on!

I was in this dress all day in the big apple! It's also great for wading in the humidity. Nothings worse in the summer weather than feeling glued into your clothes. This dress has a flirty style and a swingy hem. Oh, I also didn't topstitch my ruffles down as suggested. Not a time issue, just a design issue. It's just me, I think it takes away from the ruffle bounce! But even in the wind my ruffles didn't let me down.

HLT recommend additions: strapless undergarments! I might try placing undergarment modesty loops at the shoulder & at the back bodice...zipper level. I think that will work for those highly specialized undergarments.

It's a great Tracy Reese pattern, it's unique, fun and flirty. I'm glad that I pushed the edges of time a bit to get this dress done...I wouldn't have this pattern yet if I didn't BMV. BTW, the vogues are on sale at the 'J' this weekend. I wouldn't be wearing this dress if I waited for this sale! I'm even happier about my fabric choice!

Thanks for coming over!

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New Butterick Fall 2010 Patterns! Mostly Possibilities!

2010-08-06T02:13:00.001-04:00

Well here they are! My gut reactions!

Sleeve insanity or sleeve iconic? Insanity.

Raglan sleeves make me look like a football player with plastic shoulder pads! I'm liking the peplum though.

Front: dress. Back: coat.

Cheepy, cheepy, in cheepy white poly! Will look great in deep plum point knit. I like the 3/4 sleeve length.

Skirt! Yes! Jacket? Maybe.

Must have it! Will get it! I can do a kimono sleeve!

Star trekie chic. I don't know.

Are you crying, or crying tears of joy? Well, readers I think I think some of these may get on the list after I finish the rest if my Vogues and vintages, but it's time for a pattern drafting class. I've made a couple things self drafted on my own, but I think it's time to get down! Pattern thoughts or direction on pattern making are welcomed!

I'll still post the dress today. Just later.

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The psychology of marketing. A different Vogue pattern sale.

2010-08-05T06:59:00.001-04:00

Readers, is this good marketing? When I first saw this image, I thought, oh, that's so me a Girly Girl! But I'm not getting this pattern and I'm wondering how many of you did? As I've said before, I will not do ruffles on sleeves! Even if I'm in costume...which almost never happens, that includes that creepy little holiday that I loathe! Back on topic, I think they want me to buy this pattern. I'm guessing that of their designer products, this one ranked low in sales to their surprise! Ha! But isn't it kinda pretty. The hair. The makeup. The skirt is great and maybe if I just removed the sleeve ruffle it would look very pretty on you...unique. Why don't you buy it and give it a try. Yea! It won't hurt at all. It will be fun!

No readers, I will not get this pattern at this price, or at all, because it's $5.99! They got my money, I got the patterns, did they forget that the patterns were just $3.99. My inner girly girl is slightly disappointed! (in a high squeaky voice) I do want to show my feminine side with ruffles and frills! Ok tell me! Who got this pattern. Just curious. I know someone will totally rock it!

Almost done, these Vogue pattern sale post things won't last forever. I'm just learning their pattern, recording it, because they have one.

Lastly, readers you should be proud! That last post, I did on a real laptop! Oh dear, that was a time eater! I'm proud if me for that post, but that took a lot of time, so don't get used to it readers, laptops are now a 'sometimes food' for me. It's back to tap, tap, tap iPad blogging, which is also why the formatting is not as fabulous, but I'm dealing.

See ya tomorrow with my dress!

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I'm calling it! It's over! I'm moving on!

2010-08-03T13:00:00.006-04:00

Good bye summer sewing...

I didn't plan this, but it's been the summer of the skirt! After I spent a day (late spring) trudging in sweltering heat and swimming through the humidity, capris and shorts were not working for me! Fabric sticking to skin is not stylish on me, IMO. These skirt were super easy to make, they don't require much fabric, and they can be finished in an hour or two.

In the tops and bottoms category there are 2 items that were not necessarily outfitted the most, they were just great for me!: the Sunset Seagulls Tank & the Impressionist Pencil Skirt. This skirt ranks highest overall, the print is so versatile, casual or dressy. It's not clingy and wades through humidity quite nicely.

Here's the breakdown:

7 Skirts:
Zebra pencil skirt (worn 5 times)
Vintage zebra pencil skirtt (worn 1 time)
Impressionist pencil skirt (worn 3 times)
Turkish delight pencil skirt (worn 1 time)
Navy tropical skirt (worn 3 times) Thought I did a post but it's the same pattern as the zebra pencil skirt.
Stretch linen pleated skirt (worn 1 time)
Vintage A+ skirt (worn 1 time)

4 Tops
Sunset seagulls tank (worn 3 times)
Vacay Flutter Tank (worn 2 times)
Vacay Tulle Fountain Tank (worn 2 times)
Sweet Ruffle Wrap blouse (worn 1 time)

1 Apron
Zebra, Toile, Batik Oh my! Apron & here.(worn 2 times)

3 Pants (Transition ready!)
Minnie Penny Pant 3
A Little Bit Skinny Penny Pant 2
Skinny Penny Pant 1

2 DIY Upgrade
Liberty Floral Daze Cardigan (worn 2 times)
Black Lattice Belt (worn 1 time)

Well, now that I look back, I didn't reach my goal, so far as the number, of dresses sewn. What really slowed me down, was not having/finding the right fabric for the pattern. I could have squeezed in another solid/cotton brocade. But I'm very happy that I achieved different goal of adding color and prints to my wardrobe. Finally! I think the solid dress and the print neutrals will be most wearable for next year, for sure, we will have to see about the others.

As you can tell there's a certain shape and form that just works for me. The sheath dress is my comfort and staple, my signature if you will. I want to continue to try out new shapes so that my signature stays fresh, not boring! After wearing each of these dresses one of them rises above. This dress interrupted my conversations and interrupted conversations in passing. It's the Painted Zebra Wrap dress! I was trying something different and it worked!

2 neutral prints that I will be able to wear next year:
Painted zebra wrap dress (worn 1 time)
Vintage cowl neck dress (worn 1 time)

1 Solids (seasonless, I plan to wear it in the winter too, with tights!)
Vintage Cowl Neck Dress (worn 1 time)

3 Summer print dresses
Impressionist Floral Dress (worn 2 times)
Hot Shoulder Dress (worn 2 times)
Charlotte York Goldblat SATC 2 homage dress (worn 1 time)

1 dress for HLS
The Alumni Dress & here.(at least twice)

Hmm... seems like I'm forgetting something, maybe not. But I've been productive & practicing! Getting back into it after a winter of here & there projects, has been rewarding! It's not a wardrobe, but I sewed what I wanted, and I like that.

So what's next...
Building a transitional wardrobe on the pants that I've just sewn, then adding in tops, jackets and suits and dresses. But I'm starting with separates. You might see a couple summer items pop up this month, but it's time to plan forward. And of course there will some surprises in-between.

Thanks for stopping by!

Fresh out of the microwave! ... Tracy Reese Vogue 1190 dress!

2010-08-01T23:43:00.001-04:00

Or toaster oven...

This dress is awesome! There's so much so say but in short, this is a great pattern! Great design & construction! But there's good news and not so good news. The good: my microwave was working overtime today and this dress I'd nearly done! Just the final touches remain and shes ready for lights! I'm very happy about at least one Vogue getting sewed up, because I will not have much time this week for sewing. The not so good part: No pics of me in the dress till Friday, sorry favorite readers. When you see the pics you'll totally understand why I waited and left the boring Martha Stewart Dove wall alone this time. Sew, it was a good day!

That's all!

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The pattern situation! It's in the microwave!

2010-08-01T08:39:00.001-04:00

Well readers, it finally arrived yesterday, my manilla BMV envelope, quite timely I might add. The USPS did a lovely job shipping my patterns and putting them in my mailbox without folding or crushing them to smithereens, although, they can't seem to resist folding, nearly creasing my favorite catalogs (which also arrived yesterday) in our very spacious mailbox? Why mail lady! Why? Hmm.. Anyhow, I'm happy that I've received my patterns before they went on sale at JoAnns. That was the whole point of doing the BMV thing! Timing. So, I feel that I need to take advantage of getting my Vogues (5 days) earlier than I would if purchased at the 'J'. The Vogues go on sale at the 'J' on Friday, BTW!

So now I've moved on to reading and looking at the pattern pieces & line drawings again, visualizing the outfits in my head. I have some good hours of sewing ahead of me and it's time to get started! It's feeling like a sew it fast, quick and easy project day. Hot & Ready! Microwave sewing! Basically, I want it now! Let's see what happens! And readers thanks for stopping by, especially my favorite 40!

That's all!

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Minnie Penny Pant, Vogue 1039, #3

2010-07-29T07:10:00.000-04:00

Well that was easy...

So what's new?

This time I did the 1 inch front thigh alteration. This shall be my standard.

And a full seat alteration. I followed the instructions from the threads DVD. It's about 1/3 inch, should have done 1/2 inch. This prevents that horrible peek-a-boo from the back view!

Same pocket construction with the zig-zagstitch. I used polka dot cotton for the pockets and finished them the French way!

I only made 4 belt loops this time (not in the pattern) two on the front and two on the back. Installed the zipper in the back too. Kinda weird, but I have a pair like that and I like them. The trick is so shorten the zipper so it doesn't end up you know where! So I cut mine to 6 inches. Just right!

I also cut the waistband down to a normal, RTW width. lowered the waist band by 1.5 inches. It seems that most of the pant patterns that I've tried, which is not that many, the rise and the waistband often hits my sternum! I know, I'm petite, but why do the pattern companies follow the trends for every other garment (dresses, blouses etc.) except pants. However, this pattern does provide a place to adjust the pant rise and 2 other adjustment lines for altering the leg length. On this pair I shortened at the thigh 1/2 inch. The rest of the work is in the waistband.

The side seams & inseams were machine stitched, serged and then pressed to the back.

I'm liking the back zip detail! I used more of the polka dot fabric to finish the zipper. Hong Kong finished on all sides. It's an important feature when the zipper's back there! I saw this feature on a St. John blouse while snoop shopping at Nordstroms. The blouse was very sheer, invisible side zipper, cowl neck floral print. It only partially caught my eye, but the inside was beautiful and that comes with a $300 price tag...on the sale rack! Anyhow, I'll use this finish when I make a sheer blouse, which I need to do soon to coordinate with all of my new pants.

Because the zipper is placed so, it's super reinforced! It's got a lot of work to do if you know what I'm saying! I've never stitched an invisible so close! But each side of the tape has 4 rows of stitching, including a baste stitch. It will not fail me!

The leg is slimmed compared to the first sample but not as fitted in the leg compared to the second sample.

Inspiration: Pretty close, except my pockets are better, well I like them better. The inspiration version has back welt pockets. Speaking of welts, it's my personal goal this year to master the welt, all kinds of welts, even the Kenneth D. King versions! I know it takes lots of practice, and that's exactly what I will do!

Fabric Used: Charcoal gray stretch (I'm guessing about 3% Lycra ) cotton twill (Haberman's). Of course I think it's J.Crew fabric, it came in with the same shipment but not labeled. They feel so comfortable!

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I probably will not do these pants and time soon. Although if I did, it would be a 3 hour project, yea! But I do highly recommend this pattern!

So let's compare:

Conclusion: I liked the process of sewing the same pant pattern in sequence. Applying new alteration techniques is an enjoyable process, especially when you get it right! To explore the same pattern repeatedly opens the door to mastery. I now know that I will have to apply some alteration to any pant pattern that I sew.

I have plans to apply the same process for front fly trouser style pants, for the experience and knowledge retention, when the weather cools, if I can find a pattern that I like. Definitely, give this one a try if you are looking for a slim or skinny pant! Will you try this pattern? Watcha think?

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Vogue pattern sale alert!!!!! And one more dress!

2010-07-28T06:28:00.000-04:00

I'm surprised! I'm shocked really. This week I traversed the sweltering heat to Joann's to see if the new Vogue patterns were in stock, but they were not! And I wonder if it was just my locale, because it was a mad house and the inventory bumble bees were everywhere! It was crowded! Alas no new vogue patterns!

Ha! Ha! But that ok! I'm a trying to be good blogger and Im listening to my followers and readers and the word is.....BMV girl (me)!

So, I'm going to BMV right now! I'm going to try not to go crazy here, but I might. My rationale is that it's conducive to my productivity and fabric stash reduction! BTW, if you haven't made up your mind yet you have 4 days until the sale is over! Thanks for stopping by! So what are you getting?

Also, I'm glad she stood up!

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A little bit Minnie, skinny penny pant, sample 2

2010-07-26T23:59:00.000-04:00

Vogue 1039. You've seen sample 1, here's more details and my second version!

The pocket process deciphered :

Up close details!

Ok, so I had 10 more pictures to show you readers but they were so fuzzy I was getting dizzy! Sorry you can't see the front of this outfit.

The tone and texture of these pants is very neutral, so they basically will coordinate with everything, but I like them with a pop of color!

I'm glad I changed a few things! I love the belt loops and the garment quality pockets (idea from the Making Trousers book by David Coffin) I also lowered the waistband by 1/2 inch as compared to sample 1. Serged the inseams & side seams together after it was machine stitched, like jeans. Slightly cropped (2 inches shorter than sample 1) but will work with heels or flats. The fit is...whoa! But the fabric is cotton stretch twill so they are very comfortable!

So I'm off to finish my final pair! Scream! The fit will be somewhere between sample 1 & 2 with a couple different features! It's all good though, my final pair should be a breeze, right?! The fabric from the first 2 pair was just in my stash, so it was great to use fabric that vie had for years. BTW, DH really likes these!

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The Mad Men effect

2010-07-25T22:00:00.002-04:00

It's true, sometimes I watch TV just for the fashion!

Mad Men costume designer, Janie Bryant has done a great job creating great styles that are classic and what we want to wear for fall. The timing is perfect! And now is a great time to hunt for those vintage patterns circa 1964! Here's my pattern pics:

Just drop the sleeves!

Sans collar!

Add a petticoat! Bottom of V8020 &top of V857.

Choose either one!

Do you plan pull your style from the networks for fall? Maybe just one thing?!

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Skinny Penny Pocket pant, V1039 sample 1

2010-07-23T11:52:00.001-04:00

Well almost skinny...

Tissue fitting first ...

What I learned:
Wow, leg length is great! For 5"2', it's spot on!
Oh no, the waistband hits my sternum. Will adjust for that.

The pattern info:

MISSES’ TUNIC AND PANTS: Loose-fitting tunic with extended shoulders, front and back pleats, side gathered bands and shaped hem band, topstitched trim. Pants have side front slant pockets, upper inside pocket (that there is no picture of, but I'll show you later), contour yoke with back tab, invisible zipper closing and topstitched trim, above ankle length.

Side note: This is almost exactly what I want in a pant pattern! Initially I planned for this pair to be my muslin. I used fashion fabric that I purchased many years ago, but the weight and stretch is similar to the fashion fabric that I planned to use on my final sample.

NOTIONS: Pants: 7"/9" Invisible Zipper, Hooks and Eyes.

FABRICS: Tunic: Charmeuse and Crepe de Chine. Pants: Stretch Linen and Stretch Crepe. The stretch is very important in the comfort & fit!

Combinations: BB(8-10-12-14), FF(16-18-20-22)

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes! But I was really worried about it, especially after I finished the penny pocket!

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes they were! And believe me, I read them 2x before cutting, and then again during the process. While making the pockets, I was challenged to visualize how it would fit together, but if you follow the instructions, step-by-step they will turn out nicely!

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?. I loved the skinniness and the side zip! Front fly trousers send me into a sewing sabbatical faster than.... But I'm working on that.

Fabric Used: Brown black poly stretch with a slate blue pinstripe, with a hint of midnight. It's really nice, probably from Fabric Warehouse before they moved.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: The only alteration was to shorten the rise by 1.75 inches! I know! That's a lot, it was risky, but I wanted a modern/trendy waistline. Glad I did! Fortunately, that matched up well. I didn't do much topstitching, wanted to keep the look clean.

Oh yea, after thinking about the unique midnight pinstripe I decided to add a design element to complement the color. I switched the back facing piece to a dark blue linen.

The back tab thingie is a disaster if you already have issues with the back waistband sticking out. On my next muslin I will delete that!

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I'm working on a purely test muslin to correct some fitting issues and then I'll do it again on my fashion fabric. On my next muslin sample I'll show more step-by-step details.

Conclusion: Almost love. Will wear with Spanx! LOL!!!!

Changes on the next pair: delete the back tab, slim the legs down a bit, crop the leg a bit, add cool pocket lining, adjust for the FFT (full front thigh, how embarrassing!).

Oh, the top? I made it a couple years ago! It's an RTW copy/modification.

Thanks for reading, really!

Making trousers or at least good looking pants.

2010-07-22T09:54:00.001-04:00

I've been flipping through this book for pants help!

One great feature: it comes with a DVD-ROM, but it can only be viewed on a computer, it's in a PDF format...interesting. On some of the clips where he's not talking, it's just really bad background music, with limited typeset directions at the bottom of the screen! I had to turn that music down! The disc also has tons of pattern template. My favorite clip so far is the single welt pocket! Have I mentioned my welt pocket phobia yet? Also, I can't give a complete book review yet, but it's very comprehensive and detailed, definitely not for the beginner, but great to have around when designing pants! My primary purpose in reading this book is to gain a few designer secrets and tips that I can integrate into my pants pattern. This book/DVD has just what I've been looking for!

The Threads fitting DVD series on waist and hips was very helpful too. I don't make pants that often so a quick refresher in fitting is necessary!

Fitting issues:

Quadriceps femoris, illiopsoas, gracillis & sartorius: highly developed from years of gymnastics & training makes those ugly creases in the front, wiskers! Gotta fix that!

The section that was very helpful to me is fitting a full or flat derriere & fitting a full front thigh. The front thigh portion is the shortest clip and they don't actually show the pattern alteration but the same technique is used in the previous chapter, so you have to refer back.

So this is where it started. I did a muslin for the 1 inch extension but that was too much. The 1/2 inch worked out well.

BTW, I finished a test sample 1st via tissue fitting, then I did the above alteration. Now I'm off to do another test sample with this alteration!

Do you have a favorite resource when making pants or trousers that I need to have in my library?

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McCalls vintage 7003 circa 1963

2010-07-20T13:52:00.002-04:00

1st muslin!

Pattern pictures: I'm loving the indigo ink!

Front Bodice

Up close of the front bodice

Front bodice darts

Back bodice

Skirt back with double darts

Pattern Description:
Cowl neck, drop-shoulder dress with slim or lightly flared three-gore skirt. Bodice front is bias, has chain weight underneath cowl drape. Flared skirt is cathered at the side back and side front. Slim skirt has side front pleats, slow back pleat. Either version has center back zipper and may be lined.

Pattern Sizing: 14, 34 bust. This is a one size pattern. I probably could do well with a size 12 because I graded everything down 1/2 inch.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Almost. The drape is not as dramatic as I had hoped, but If you look closely at the pattern photo you'll see that the sleeve wings out slightly. That's not a look I'm a fan of on me.

Were the instructions easy to follow? The instructions were truly vintage, with back facing and armholes facing. I didn't go that route. My dress is fully lined, but I had to redrafted the back bodice lining to correct for the back facing (that I choose to use) and lower the lining on the front pattern piece because it's self faced. The pattern does not correct for this. The instructions follow techniques that are not as relevant with the technologies available on most machines today. They do require much more hand stitching, while on my garment only the hem is hand stitched.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? The picture on the front sold me, with that Jackie O flair! DH thinks I need a hat, but I'm not sold on that yet.

Fabric Used: A bouncy cotton poly blend. I did a couple burn tests to attempt confirmation, very slow burning, woody aroma, but the ashes didn't fall. So there's probably some poly or acetate in the percentage. Bemberg lining. Invisible zipper. I think that the rest of this fabric will be put in the circular filing bin (the trash).

Sorry, my form is leaning!

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I had to size down 1/2 inch on the vertical seams, 6 inches off the hem. The waist fit and back darts are spot on. BTW, the waist seam is about 1 inch above my natural waist. Slightly high! Also the lining changes noted above.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I plan to sew this again, I'll probably do one more muslin... playing around with sleeve/shoulder seam darts, increasing the seam allowance so there's less sleeve or re-cutting them all together. Other considerations: reducing the armscye circumference (it's not fine not but it could be better, elongating at the shoulder seam and widening the cowl portion of the pattern for better drape. Eventually, I want to make this out of lightweight wool jersey which will be much easier to sew, IMO.

Conclusion: The sleeves are not that flattering on my arms. And the high neckline alters the proportions, balance & rule of thirds. But over all I do like it! Especially, with the asymmetrical neckline + brooch. I couldn't ask for a better fit on a first try vintage pattern.

It's twisted & shorter! Tip of the day from Threads Insider Techniques DVD (I haven't watched every part but I found this little sparkling gem in the collar unit on the main menu. I also re-learned this little gem after completing this project). BTW, I highly recommend watching this if you haven't seen it yet. And If you don't want own it, make sure your local library does!)

B on B, bigger on the bottom, bias on the bottom! When sewing with bias, put it next to the feed dogs because they 'eat'. The pressed foot pushes the fabric. This will assure that both pieces of fabric will end up the same length.

I believe that this was an issue on this dress because the front bodice is cut on the bias. So at the side seams and shoulder seams there is that potential for wonkyness!! Some seams are good, others...no do much.

I'd like to hear your thoughts on this. Is this dress it wearable? How do you sew bias? Do you follow the B on B principle? Or does it just work out for you? Suggestions?

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Lattice belt DIY

2010-07-19T20:04:00.001-04:00

Happy Monday Readers! I'm too tired to post want I want to post, but that will come tomorrow. Sorry. But I did get a little crafty today with this belt that I probably purchased 2 years ago from one of those cheapy cheap accessories stores, with the intention of using it on a sewing project in some way. Today was the day!

This belt caught my attention because of the intricate laser work, albeit on vegan leather textile. It did have some cons, it's two sizes to large and it has a hideous generic buckle. I started the project by cutting the belt 1 inch longer than my natural waist.

Keeping the original design of the end of the belt, I replicated the form on the opposite end and cut my hook and loop tape to match. From my experience sewing animal hide leather, using a tiny amount of rubber cement is helpful to set leather or leather like textiles. And I switched my needle to a leather grade needle.

Some of you may remember this (pre-blog, review is on PR):

Back to the belt...I sewed the tape onto each end using bar tacks which provided enough support for the wear and tear.

And voilà! I'll post about my vintage pattern dress tomorrow.

And one more thing...

While fabric shopping today, I commented on a piece of fabric that another customer scored in the remnant section. Hot, Italian rayon ikat knit border print, really great. Lovely. And then we both went our on way in the store. Much, much, much later she returned to me and said that the fabric was to thin for the project that she wanted to do, and offered it to me! Wow! A fabric store act of kindness. It was unexpected! I graciously accepted the piece. So to you, beautiful kind stranger I say, THANK YOU x 1000! Not just because I received some really cool fabric, but because I was blessed by your choice of kindness to another human being!

...that's all.

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Lame Pattern Sales! Summer Fabric! Wishlist!

2010-07-18T08:24:00.000-04:00

The month of July is more than half finished! For me this means that I have
14 days to reduce some of my summer fabric stash before it's stored away (I do that before the seasons change), even though there's a good month left of hot sticky Summer, I'm ready to sew for Fall, but I'm just trying to sew these up! Too many pots on the front burners!

If you are looking for patterns:

July 18-24 Butterick patterns at Joann fabrics $0.99.
There might be a glimmer of hope here if they do the fall rollout this week!

July 19-24 Simplicity patterns at Hobby Lobby are $0.99.

July 22-25 Simplicity patterns at Hancock fabrics $1.99.

July 22-25 Kwik Sew patterns at Hancock fabrics 20% off.

July 29-31 Simplicity patterns at Joann fabrics $1.99 again!

It's like the retailers are trying to rid their drawers of the Simplicity patterns with all the sales! I wonder! But here are my pre-fall picks:

McCalls pattern sale is no where in sight either!

So basically, you're super lucky if you live near a Hancock fabrics last week (11-17th)! All the new fall Vogue patterns are yours for a chill $3.99. That does not include me, oh no, I'm 50 miles from the nearest Hancock location and it's even in another state! I need at least one to attempt to start on or at least ogle over. Does anyone have sympathy for HLT...anybody...sad face. I'll only put down 'the money' if it's vintage and I can't get it on eBay for cheaper. I have a situation!

From the sale schedule it looks like I'll be waiting till August or September for my Vogues!!!!!! Again, sad face. If I'm missing a sale, please let me know! Have a great sewing Sunday!

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Maggy London style

2010-07-16T16:24:00.001-04:00

After I made B5455, I've been eyeing Maggy London everywhere but mostly at Nordstrom. I like the simple classic lines with modern styling and the off the runway twist! If only Butterick will be inspired by one of these new designs for their Fall Rollout!

The ones with the side draping are my favorite! Have you made a Maggy London before? Inspired? Or not so much?

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Storyboard planning

2010-07-13T17:12:00.001-04:00

While this is what my creative space story board looks like:

You can see my digital version on Twitter (click on the Twitter button, top left) and discuss it here or there!
Watch think?

Oh, and the Vogues are out! Tracy Reese & Anne Klein did it fabulous for me!

And I was right!!!

It was Rebecca Taylor & Anne Klein!

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Sweet Ruffle wrap, Anna Sui V2850

2010-07-12T00:01:00.000-04:00

Honey, is your foot on the wall?

No dear, I'm standing like a stork!

Inspiration: This J.Crew Coralie blouse

Pattern Description & sizing:

MISSES TOP: Close-fitting empire waist tops with neckline variations. A, C: partially lined. A: halter back with back neck and waist ties. B: sleeveless, wrap top has neck flounce. C: ribbon trim along outer edge. I made view B.

NOTIONS: Top C: 3 yds. of 11/2" Decorative Ribbon.

FABRICS: Top A, B, C: Chiffon, Batiste, Charmeuse and Crepe de Chine. Underlining and Lining A, B, C: Lining Fabric.

Combinations: A(6-8-10), D(12-14-16), FW(18-20-22)

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Almost, except for the changes that I made. I wanted to recreate the X of ruffles in the front!

Were the instructions easy to follow?. Yes, they were very clear, and well written. The pictures are helpful too.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love the the idea of the flouncy ruffle but not the size. I also liked that this top wraps! Another great thing about this pattern is is has 3 great independent blouses, not your mix and match puzzle piece variety. And it's a Designer pattern by Anna Sui! This pattern has really great value! And I highly recommend it on that note. Also, this pattern has a bit of longevity. It was printed in 2005 and I just purchased it this last week, it hasn't be hanging around in my stash. I think that's impressive for Anna and Vogue, so add it to your stash before it's too late (OOP).

Fabric Used: Sheer rayon chiffon from Haberman's.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:.
THE RUFFLE: I reduced the size of the ruffle by 1/3, grading and tapering to the narrowest portion. Instead of cutting 2, I cut 4. I used 2 on the upper right side, 1.5 on the upper left, .5 on the lower right side and 1 on the bottom left.

***I forgot this picture, I took it a while ago, but the pattern piece on the right is what I used for my ruffles. Combine the 2 and that's the original pattern ruffle, it's pretty big!

***This one I didn't forget. It just became to complicated and kept reseting itself. Anyway here is the ruffle dissection!

THE HEM & EDGES: The directions recommend a double turn edging for the hem and the ruffle. I decided to use my serger and do a rolled hem on all the edges including the belt. This was a huge time saver, but can be challenging with thin fabrics that enjoy fraying. It can be done either way. I highly recommend doing a test run to adjust your serger to the settings that work best with your fabric.

THE BELT & BOW: Shortened by 8 inches, and I could probably shorten it more. The original length wrapped around my bodice and tied in the front, bow & tails hanging long. Or when tied in the back the bow tails reached the bottom of my skirt. BTW, it doesn't look good being tied in the front with the additional ruffles on the lower half.

RIGHT BELT LOOP: I made my own. Although the blouse looks as light as air, this blouse is weighty! So instead a skinny loop, I made a chunky one that's interfaced with fusible white weft. Topstitched then machine stitched onto the blouse.

LEFT BELT LOOP: Again, I made my own. The pattern recommends an inseam loop. I stitched mine closed and made a weft fusiable reinforced buttonhole that will not collapse! And I placed is slightly higher than where the pattern suggested to correct the inevitable belt droopiness.

ARMSCYE & NECK BINDING: Sewn as recommended.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Again, I highly recommend this pattern! I have no plans to do the other views at this time but it's nice to have options. On a basic level, view B has great bones to build on for different projects.

Conclusion: I think it's very floaty! It's best worn with a cool summer breeze at sunset. Almost ruffle nausea but I hope I stopped short for those of you with ruffle fru fru sensitivities. Oh, and I need a cami! Thanks for reading!

Thoughts? Questions?

Turkish Delight skirt, M4663

2010-07-09T02:00:00.000-04:00

Move that clutch!

Pattern Description: Non-Stop Wardrobe coordinates (jacket/coat, pant, blouse, skirt), I made the skirt, fully lined. Pattern is from 2004!

Pattern Sizing: 8-14

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Absolutely, yes!

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, I actually read them! But as usual, I went my own way, attaching the waistband 1st, then inserting the zipper, then the lining. In put the zipper in early because I didn't want a back tab...just to busy for this print, IMO.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I just wanted a skirt with a good waistband and after going though my stash, this pattern was exactly what I was looking for!

Fabric Used: Cotton/poly/polyamide from Haberman Fabrics, yes, I scored again! It's J.Crew, but not the exact fabric that went to production. Probably a 1st or 2nd draft. But I like how vibrant the colors are! Bemberg lining, invisible zipper, ribbon.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I altered the back by adding 2 baby darts to either side of the pattern darts. I wanted a bit more contour. Also, the waistband was cut cross grain, it was the prettiest solution! At first I tried it in the grain but the colors were to consecrated! So I flipped it and I'm happy that I did!

Oh yea, before beginning this project I did a little closet snooping and found a similar Petite Sophisticate suit skirt (that I still wear & fit, BTW) that was basically what I wanted. It had the loops so I copied, looked through my stash and found orange and yellow grosgrain ribbon. The yellow looked best against the taupe lining, so I went with that.

This is very different, a derivation from my usual colors and prints, but I'm loving it!

Update:

Paris75008, on PR asked about my mini darts...

Ok, about the mini darts...if you are ever jeans/pant shopping with me you'll constantly hear me complaining about serious gaping in the back. This is because my waist is significantly more narrow than my curvy bottom. It depends on where the garment places the waist seam that determines if I'll have to add my short baby dart. In this case I wanted the skirt to sit just below my waist which is where the circumference change begins...suddenly! I'll only increase a dart size (usually) if it's just a smidge, doing one big chunky dart on the back view will surely cheapen your creative handiwork. Thanks for asking!!

Would you sew it again? Yes, when I want another pencil skirt with a waistband. Would you recommend it to others? Only if you have this in your stash as this pattern is OOP and not available on the McCall's website.

Conclusion: Ok, so this one is my favorite skirt of the summer. I'm loving this brocade because it will be so easy to transition into a fall wardrobe. The shoes and clutch I had on hand, although I've only worn the shoes once before.

Oh and the blouse! I made that too! I'll talk about that later...I can't wait!

Here's how my skirt will work it in the cold with taupe fishnets. Wearing it now & wearing it later!

How do I look? Sassy or clashy?

IRL room pics & not so haute, haute

2010-07-08T00:56:00.001-04:00

Chair: Done
Artwork: Still hunting
Vertical storage: Found

Well, that's it for this week on the cleaning and organizing front. Next week my storage arrives which will bring some relief for the pattern & fabric overflow situation. Can't wait for that!

Readers it was a bit lackluster today in the couture world today. 3 collections (Saab, JPG, & Valentino). Sounds great, right? After scrolling through hundreds of pics...Valentino usually makes me swoon, but it wasn't until the last photo that I was reminded of his retirement.

On a note of trends: shop your stash, sew red! I know I need to!

Haute, haute, haute

2010-07-07T07:38:00.001-04:00

It's couture time in Paris and two of my favorites revealed their collections yesterday.

Armani Prive
This show was sophisticated and business classic with a twisted marriage of fine tailoring and draping without being overworked. My favorite is this dusty cream dress, but will she move the clutch out of the way already!

Details that stand out:

Chanel
Very modern earthy background, the pictures seem to have a softer focus. Many of the sleeves have a tire inflated look, almost bloated! Trends I like, sorry, but I like the fur accents! The boots look lice crinkled leather, sequins or boucle with the traditional Chanel capped toe.

The details: fur trim, cropped sleeves, bold chunky pleats & tucks, amazing hand beading.

Creative space update:

Well, the couch is out and the chair is in! A vintage armless recently recovered & gifted from grandmother. I like this corner (IRL pics tomorrow), but I may rethink the pillow. Today I will weed out some dead patterns to see if I can condense the collection and finish a project!

Happy face... Thanks blogger!

2010-07-06T10:21:00.001-04:00

Well that was embarrassing! One of the best parts about blogging is the conversations that happens in the comments. And for a while is was disabled, but it's functioning better right now. This issue has been going on since 9pm yesterday apparently. Thanks for stopping by!

Organizing and cleaning and a online sighting!

2010-07-06T07:29:00.002-04:00

Good morning readers! I hope all of you had a great safe extended weekend, eating and celebrating and sewing. Cleaning & organizing has been the focus around my way and it's looking very spiffy (garage/basement)! Except my dedicated creative space... it's not as fabulous as it needs to be. It's 13 x 10, French doors, double window closetless space. And because it is not your typical bedroom, I feel starved for more storage. I have a great sewing table, IMO, for 2 machines and for regularly used notions, but I've out grown most of that too. For years I've been happy to lounge on my favorite loveseat to think, design, create, and occasionally nap! So, I think it's time to downsize the leisure seating! I'm not super happy about it, but a nice vintage recovered wingback could make is all better. So, I'm moving stuff out and sewing in between. This is it's current and transitional state:

Not to shabby, eh? The couch is leaving for a chair (l will have more space to drape) and the smaller cabinet is leaving for something taller and spacious! All I have to do is is find it and buy it! The hard version of my storyboard is hanging on the wall above the fabrics that are in queue, which reside just below on an IKEA bath towel rack. More on what's hanging there & the story board later.

In a very recent email!!!!!!!!!

I'm was very excited to see this email in my inbox this morning! Some great designers albeit repeats will have patterns in this rollout. Donna Karan, Rebecca Taylor, Tracy Reese, Anne Klein New York, Michael Kors, Bagdley Mischka, DKNY, Issey Miyake & Bellville Sasson. 2 new ones were revealed in the color and fabric trend report. Here's my attempt to decipher:

V1199 -Great bodice, pin tucks and neckline ruffles. Nice. Ruffles on the sleeves? Not so slimming! Here's to hoping it's and easy swap out if you love it. I don't... Without knowing the list of designers it looks like Anna Sui. But I'm guessing... Rebecca Taylor.

Readers, I can work with the office moto chicness. Looks like a zipper closure, without too much exposure. May have to shave down the collar and it might be to boxy for me, but the colors are divine! But I'm guessing...Anne Klein NY or one of the Donna Karan lines.

What do you think? Am I on track or off the mark? Personally, I can't wait to see the rest of the line!

Celebrate you! & Happy 4th!

2010-07-02T10:05:00.001-04:00

Happy Birthday USA & Happy 4th of July US readers just a couple days early! Happy weekend international readers! I'm very excited that holiday time is here because I'll be taking some time to rest from sewing so I can shop for fabric! LOL!

I'm sure that there are special meals planned, family gatherings, and parties to go to, maybe even a wedding, but what will you wear? I've made a conscious decision to 'wear my work', at least 1 item each day through Sunday. And that shouldn't be hard because I do change outfits at least a couple times a day. Here's what I picked out:

Friday: Made the lace cami last year (pre blog). Still love it!

Saturday: Made the dress. See SATC Charlotte post. To wear on the lawn.

Sunday: Just made this sunset seagulls tank.

Will you celebrate you & wear what you made this weekend? Or will you be finishing projects? Do tell!

The rest of that animal...a skirt.

2010-07-01T07:14:00.001-04:00

Finally, good lighting!

So, of the 3 yards total purchased I was able to squeeze this out! Its the same fabric as the painted zebra wrap dress (see post for details). The skirt is TNT pattern, super easy, B5466. This time it's fully lined, no facing, invisible back zipper.

Conclusion: Sweet! It's easy to dress it up or down and that's exactly what I like!

Just as summer arrives, I'm very ready to start a fall wardrobe. I'm planning for it, but probably won't start until late July. Until then, back to dresses! The goal in my head is pretty high, but achievable. I just need the perfect fabric.

Thanks for stopping by!

Sunset seagulls tank...and a skirt

2010-06-30T14:18:00.002-04:00

I kept passing over this fabric at Joann's, picking it up, putting it back, each visit. Loving the color of this knit but feeling unsure about those birds. Readers, I don't ever wear animal portraits or shadow portraits, that stuff is for kids right? Yea! Until now? Oh, and this is M5853...again. I didn't want to wait on this fabric sitting around waiting to get sewed, it was now or way too late!

Inspiration: PAPER BAG WAIST DRESS, MINK PINK, PINK SALOON

Everything is completely serged, except for the twisted streamer & relaxed pleat, which were machine stitched. Each was made of 4 inch wide strips, serged closed and either twisted or pleated. Easy. The streamer was sewn into the shoulder seams & the pleat is machine tacked.

The skirt: stretch linen, pleated with pockets!!
Description: 2451 Misses' Skirts, each in two lengths. Easy to Sew Collection.

Unlined, serged, invisible zipper. Comfortable. Let's call it a wearable muslin...I may do this one again.

Whatcha think?

Lemlem dress ideas

2010-06-28T08:33:00.004-04:00

Recently, a new reader requested ideas for a DIY project, making this Lemlem Lucy patio dress. She likes it, but not a $200 like it. Here are 2 great ideas to get it done!

This would be my first choice! NL6936.

A second option: S2642.

Or you could use both patterns: Using S2642 for the top (I think the sleeves look better) and NL6936 door the skirt portion (it's not as full). Just match up the size correctly.

Finding fabric that you like might be more challenging than sewing it up! Good luck finding something that you love! Here are some suggestions:

Designing your own fabric with ribbon will be a very tedious process but very rewarding.

Lastly, screen printing the stripes on your fabric. This will create a unique custom look, that you'll enjoy for years! Oh, and I have no idea about the cost, unless you DIY, it could get pricey! There are plenty of videos to walk you through this process.

Hope this helps and good luck on your project! Thanks for asking too! Have a question, let me know at b4thedoor @ gmail dot com.

Painted zebra wrap dress, B5320

2010-06-25T00:01:00.001-04:00

Pattern Description: MISSES' DRESS: Mid-knee, lined wrap dresses A, B have inseam pockets, pleated collar, front princess seams and gathered back. A: cap sleeves. B: sleeveless. I choose a modified version of B.

NOTIONS: 1/2" Wide Ribbon and One Snap. Didn't use ether.

RECOMMENDED FABRICS: Lightweight Stretch Broadcloth, Linen and Crepe. Unsuitable for obvious diagonals. Allow extra fabric to match plaids or stripes. Use nap yardages/layouts for pile, shaded or one-way design fabrics.

Pattern Sizing: BB(8-10-12-14), F5(16-18-20-22-24)

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Mostly, except for minor changes.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Pretty straight forward.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? Liked the gathers and pockets. Disliked the gathered back upper and the voluminous collar.

Fabric Used: 100% cotton print by J.Crew from Haberman's. I know! They got a pretty good shipment in last week. I was shocked at my luck! No stretch, sateen. Feels like butta, cuts like butta, sewed like butta! 2 yards of lining, but I only used 1.25yds. And there's enough left for a pencil skirt! Yea!

Pattern alterations or any design changes made:

Waistline: shortened by 1.5 inches.

Gathers: Decreased the gathers on the front side and back panel by about 4 inches on each piece. I cut 4 inches off so the skirt was not that fluffy! I can't imagine using all that fabric on my derrière. This was enough!

Collar ruffle: I didn't use the pattern piece, I drafted my own. Reducing the width by more than half. Modified the length to fit only around the neckline. The knife pleats are randomly placed and alternate to each side. After the ruffle was stitched and steamed (not pressed because I didn't want to deal with the crease down the middle of my ruffle), I reshaped the ruffle (separating the flat ruffle, slightly twisting then securing with pins & steamed) for a miniature crushed ruffle look.

Back upper: For a more fitted look, I added 2 custom back darts, so I didn't have to do the upper back gathers. Its very simple to do if you have a good form. If not you may want to swap it out for another favorite pattern piece with darts.

Hem: Raised the hem by 2 inches. Machine sewed lining, hand stitched fashion fabric hem.

Inside: Understitching, helped everything lay nicely. Oh, I didn't interface the front facing at all. The fabric has good weight, and I wanted to keep the swing!

Belt: Is supposed to be cut on the bias. Instead I cut it on the grain, just to go with the flow, especially on the back view. And I like the contrast of the vertical bow tails with the horizontal stripes on the skirt. For the longer left belt pattern, I added a little lightweight interfacing, so that it wouldn't sag, it's pretty crisp. This was done before the turn.

Lining: I only had to alter the pattern by .75inch on each side. I liked that the skirt linings are separate pattern pieces.

Pockets: The pattern calls for the facing and pocket to be used by the fashion fabric. I faced with lining. The pockets are nice and deep!

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Hmmmm...this is a really great real wrap dress, would be nice to try sans collar with 3/4 sleeves & a neckline modification, but one is enough for now!

Conclusion: I love this dress! Its very comfortable and breezy! I know I've broken a cardinal 'look slimmer rule' with gathers, ruffles and wide horizontal stripes, but some how it works! Right? Whatcha think?

Early fall Simplicity 2010

2010-06-24T16:00:00.001-04:00

Here's the cover. Not liking the hair, but liking the dress on the back cover. Maybe.

Of corse the moto & boyfriend blazer...

Cute suit...& blouse...but a boxy jacket...

CR: For early fall there's bags & an apron.

The one with hope: draped sleeves, ruffle front, high collar or a gathered bodice like Vogue's Kay Unger sans collar. Might be nice to try.

A bit like Butterick, but more tailored and not online quite yet. Ok back to planning. Tomorrow...a new dress. Can't wait to show you! Thank for stopping by!

My McCall's Fall 2010 picks are...

2010-06-23T11:12:00.001-04:00

M6170 is a jacket I think we've seen before. It's really one of those that could be really great, or go very wrong, IMO, like the denim! The animal print is looking sleek but too trendy trendy for me.

M6173 is quite interesting, especially depending on the fabric choice! For very hot legs only! That's all!

M6172 is a great boyfriend blazer that is on trend but can be just as classic as well. Slouchy and tailored styles are great, but the cropped version is drenched in the 80s. I'm guessing the tailoring is more involved because it's Palmer/Pletsch

M6177 is kinda cute if you are into aprons. The scoop neckline is a little different.

M6162 is a lot like the popular black halo dress and my number one pick. Every other pattern in this rollout fades! I like the waistline piece and the option to go with out the shoulder flaps. Not so great with people with really broad shoulders! But I want to try this one!

This black halo dress retails for $345.00

Over all with one or 2 exceptions this is a sad fall rollout. A lot of sloppiness, boxy jackets and blankets that you wear... which is not my personal style so, and I can only take so much of this. Overall, there is a lot of shoulder emphasis, of them,only 1 that I really like. Here to hoping that other previews are not as uninspired. BTW, Hobby Lobby McCall's patterns are only .99 cents this week! If they are not in the cabinets today, hopefully they will be by the end of the week. You can find all of the McCall's Fall 2010 new sewing patterns on their website. Happy sewing!

If you don't like pretty, look away!

2010-06-17T15:26:00.000-04:00

Well readers, the shows for Resort 2011 are basically over. I try to reserve one eye for what might be coming to the stores in a couple months. Mostly it's inspiration for color, prints and texture, but I do want to redo a couple of when I can get my hand on some really cool fabric. This montage only covers a few of the collections that showed. Resort presentations are usually a precursor to what we'll see in the fall (Spring 2011).

Very tropical! These crazy prints are awesome! There's a yellow for everyone!

Oscar always gives good collar! Very interesting shapes.

These are chic and not too trendy.

What amazing graphic prints! Great shapes and surprises!

This line is so sugary sweet and precious! I love the neutrals too!

I'm sure we'll see one of these on the red carpet in the near future. Elegant gold foils and beadwork, as usual.

I'm happy to see that the asymmetrical/one shoulder look will be around for another season. Lena Horne rocked it! I'd like to see it become a true classic. Most ladies have at least one great shoulder, right?

I love every single one! Great color, great lines, sophisticated. I want!

This line reads a bit fall to me, but I like it a lot! These blends of neutrals are my true comfort colors!

One of my ultimo fav designers! Very sweet also, but with a dash more grown woman.

Wow! Retro yumminess!! I love it all! Just a bit of Mad Men and 2010! And the hair...spot on! Maybe Cathy might like something?

This line is new to me, but it's been around for a couple years! Beautiful colors, classic shapes! All the way pretty!

So do you have a fav, or something you like?

DIY: Liberty Floral Daze Cardigan by J. Crew

2010-06-14T00:01:00.000-04:00

The J.Crew version.

Liberty of London for Target® Pleated Chemise - Grand Royal & Sixty Print. Was $17.99, now on sale for $12.99 if you can find one. I purchased a XL. They must be junior sized because the elastic banding fit me snugly. The bottom portion I used for my DIY project.

Merona® Women's Classic Cardigan Sweater - White $19.99. Nothing special.

Waiting...waiting...waiting
I've been delaying this project for way to long! Mistake!

First I started by 'aging' the cardi...
Lots of hot water and coffee packs in the filter, at least 2 gallons for an xs. Give it room to swim! Wet the cardi before aging. I think it's ok to check every 30 seconds, but I checked every 10 seconds. And of course it will dry lighter, and it did. Lay flat to dry, then into the dryer with a bunch of like colored towels.

...Then harvesting my fabric
It worked out to just cut it off. I already knew I had enough fabric. Because the original chemise was pleated, it needed to be ironed out before cutting.

Fitting the muslin...
This was a bit tricky because I wasn't going to cut the cardi so it would lay flay, so I cut the muslin on my form, giving about 1/2 inch seam allowance. First, I started shaping with a vertical bodice dart, but I thought that would alter the floral print to much. So I went a horizontalish bust dart. That worked.

Sewing on...
The neckline and center front parts as well as the bottom edge went along quite smoothly. Shoulder & side seams gave me a minor bit of grief because the actual cardigan seams were bulky. Dealing with this bump was annoying, but I guess if you shop or thrift for a high quality cardigan you may not run into this issue. Oh, and does the zipper foot help!!

Stitches...
Center front edge & bottom edge...sewn down & pressed back
Neckline & side seams... Topstitched on

I'm really happy with the results! So happy that I'll be wearing it today! Totally worth it! Of course I'm saving my pattern and thinking of a fall redo. Yea! I'll save the details for later. I REALLY love it. At first I thought the print was cheesy retro, but it kept growing on me. BTW, the coloring is slightly deeper in most photos, my flash was working overtime! The sewing neckline photo is color true. My cardi differs from the original in that is does not have patch pockets. They would be easy to do if you had a matching twinsets.

Watcha think?

And one more thing...back in March this same retailer gave a few ideas for DIY kids. Bits of tulle on leggings, fabric paint on a tiered dress, and rosettes on cardis. Hmmmmm......

FBR 4 V8630, It's not a robot, it's a dress!

2010-06-11T10:53:00.002-04:00

Pattern Description: Lined dress, sleeveless or with 3/4 length sleeves, back zipper, and large collar. I made view without the collar.

Pattern Sizing: 6-12

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, except for the collar. One reason I wanted it without the collar is because I'm a cardiaholic. It makes it more versatile for me.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Didn't even look at them.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I really like the bateau neckline of this pattern. There's nothing out there like. It except for vintage patterns & that's the look of inspiration.

Fabric Used: Stretch cotton sateen from JoAnns, and lining.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Well, well, well! Just when I thought, great easy dress, only 4 pattern pieces to use, I had to reset both waist darts on the front upper and lower pattern pieces. Don't normally have to do that with Butterick or McCalls. I'm not complaining too much, having to grade the waist down a couple of sizes is nice.

Anyhow, when I first started reading PR years ago, it was cool seeing all the beautiful FBAs, sliced and diced, then realizing that will probably not ever be my path, unless I choose to start sewing children's wear for myself (eww) or I surgically alter my body to require a FBA! LOL! Learning how to move or remove darts is a similar skill that's great for your toolbox though. So basically this ended up being a FBR, full bust reduction. A little sad maybe? Nope. My other option is to leave it as a potato sack shift dress. I think not!

So now I'm wondering if all those undergarment fit specialist are so very wrong, and the tags on my undergarments must be lying to me. B, B, B! That's what they say. So, my personal conclusion to the bust/bodice matter is, the pattern dart sizes are a bit off.

I was inspired by:

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? No, no readers I'm done here. Moderately recommended, if you're not in a cup size crisis. Otherwise, this is a great beginner pattern, especially sans collar.

Conclusion: I really like the neckline of this dress. And I think this belt really helps.

Simple black crinkled chiffon cut into 1/2 inch strips or less, bind and sews onto 2 inch elastic I found on eBay. The other flower is purchased trim, poly chiffon, with satin edging. Machine basted and attached to the belt. Velcro closure. I know, I know! Couldn't wait for my snaps to arrive. For shame! But it's heavy duty and it works!

Jcrew Elastic blossoms belt: $42.50.

Total time to complete, for the dress only, from 1st cut to final steam:

BTW, this was not a race for me, but more an evaluation of my time spent/quality & cost. Was it worth it? Do tell me your thoughts.

B4 the Door Thursday

2010-06-10T15:38:00.000-04:00

Long long ago, there were ladies of the 1920s that dressed fashionably and checked their style before the door. On this week's B4 the Door Polyvore post, we take the 1920s look to the 2010s for a look that is reminiscent but still very fashion forward. Enjoy!

Check out the details here. Join our B4theDoor group on Polvore and submit your own vintage inspired sets!

The coat with no name

2010-06-09T17:04:00.002-04:00

So, if you haven't noticed, there is a bit of vintage talk here @b4thedoor. Growing up, I was surrounded by vintage furniture that I loved, it was everywhere. My favorite is the kidney shaped vanity & stool with a hidden drawer, so adorable. Sitting there made me feel so grown, even though my toes didn't reach the floor yet. Not to long ago, my grandmother gifted me this fabulous vintage winter coat. I wear it with pride and hope the day never comes when I will decide to take it apart piece by piece to make another one, exactly the same. I will sew and cry and sew and cry. Hmmm, is sewing my therapy? Am I making progress? Slowly, slowly. Anyway, here she is...my unnamed coat!

I did take some photos of the pockets but they didn't show the detail well at all. The flaps are faux, and the real pockets are on seam, supper hidden.

She has great back shoulder darts that peak under the collar and a double button back faux belt.

Her buttons are not what they used to be, I'm sure, but they have a unique deco feel, with the silver tone double inset details. On the inside she says Lorendale, but that's just on the inside.

So do you have a vintage something that you want to redo? Is vintage yucky & gross to you or chic, quality and fabulous? Whatcha think? I love!

Vintage A+ Pencil Skirt

2010-06-07T18:26:00.001-04:00

Many many years ago I bought this cute yellow, cream & brown plaid A-line mini at a vintage store and wore it very often that summer. I was so young the skirt was hardly short enough! LOL! Ahhhh, remember when? But since it was vintage, I left the hem alone. Anyway I haven't let it go, as I tend to keep really old fab stuff. When I bought this I remember asking if they knew the brand of the skirt, but there was no tag inside. So when I was looking in my closet for some vintage inspiration this came to mind 1st. Originally, the skirt had 5 buttons down the front, but the proportions were wrong for my petite frame, so I removed 2.

I love the fabric, and haven't seen any quite like it. It's a nice cotton, brocade like because it had ridges.

As I continued my skirt investigation the binding and the hand stitching caught my eye, then the buttons. Then I realized I have a vintage skirt that someone made in their home many years ago!

You can find it on Flickr, 7026 by Simplicity. Thanks to SurrendrDorothy for posting and providing the correct pattern number. BTW, I dont actually have this pattern, my skirt was made from the skirt (view 3, with patch pockets) that was probably made from this pattern. So I traced the skirt, omitting the darts, I prefer not to have them anyhow. Adding a seam allowance and length.

Just like the vintage, I used seam binding to finish the waistband.

To confirm even further, the original button, picture below, top left, is the same as a current LaPetite buttons I found with a slightly different patina. But I liked the brighter ones...the complement my shoes right?

The fabric is silk from Lemon Creek Fabrics.

Used a invisible zipper as usual, and I just love the back tab! Might have to use this detail more often. Self drafted and interfaced with fusible.

Ultimately, the pockets had to stay far away. Cute on the mini, not so chic on my almost A-line pencil skirt. Besides the back tab the other interesting detail is the front faux opening/pleat. Modest detailing.

For GodsgirlT,
This skirt is finish able in 2-3 hours sdepending not the sewing speed. Drafting the tab and inserting the zipper required the most time. It might looK like it took more than a couple hours but I believe that's the result of the silk fabric and gold tone notions, that really make is all pop in a subtle classy way.

Cutting the skirt didn't take that long because the original fit me so well. Just a bit of tailors chalk to add seam allowance and a little length to the hem. Here's exactly what I did, the order process:

-Trace & cut skirt (front, back and tab pieces). Press.
-Staystitch front and back waistline. Press.
-Fold front skirt in half. Press. Sew front pleat (1 inch deep). Press.
-Sew side seams. Press.
-Sew tab. Trim. Press. Turn & sew buttonhole on tab. Press.
-Sew center back (Basting zippered portion, then lock stitch. Continue with a regular stitch to the hem. Press.
-Remove baste stitch, insert zipper with tab. (Layered: left back skirt, back tab, left zipper tape. Recommendation: sew slower over tabbed area, of course use a zipper foot.
-Insert seam binding to waistline, clip curves. Press.
-Sew on buttons & hem. Press hem.

Thanks for asking!

Overall, I do like the look! And with the blouse (retail) it adds a nice vintage finish, almost Mad Menish look. I highly recommend vintage redos & copies with a twist if necessary. Thoughts anybody?

Vintage Style

2010-06-06T21:03:00.000-04:00

Olivia de Hallivand's picture graced the front of Picturegoer magazine in 1950 in this short-sleeve deep neckline multi-belted dress looking absolutely gorgeous. Fast forward over half a century and she is still looking very stylish in her outfit. So how do you take this 1950s dress to 2010? Two choices: a) sew it yourself or b) find a base dress and add the right accents to make it reflect the essence of this de Hallivand dress.

DIY

Vogue, Butterick, McCalls, Burda and Simplicity all have a selection of retro or vintage patterns that can be used to reflect the essence of this 1950s dress. (Pictured Vogue Pattern V1044 and V8353)

Update it! Use a metallic linen fabric or soft silk in a bold color, replace the buttons with fabric rosettes, substitute the leather strap with small strands of gold chains and keep the lower portion of the silhouette very current (pencil, mini, flutter a-line)

Buy & Style
Or pick up this $28 dress from Forever 21 and multiple skinny belts to copy the Olivia de Hallivand look.

OOTD, Summer skirt #2, more art

2010-06-04T17:19:00.000-04:00

Ahh, another skirt to keep me cool this summer! Obvi, I can't stay away from this fabric and it's really nice to enjoy it on a more casual basis. This top, made it too. Fabric is fabric warehouse, a couple years ago, sheer knit burnout, super comfy double front layer cowl neck.

Here's the dress again, see how I flipped the print:

Love the print but done! Rock it 'cause you made it! And thanks readers and followers for taking a bit of your day, your very precious time to scroll through! Have a great weekend!

Don't Forget the Shoes! B4 The Door Thursday

2010-06-03T17:46:00.003-04:00

I saw this lady that had the cutest outfit on today. It was bright, summery and light, perfect for the hot and humid weather. I was inspired by her coral and yellow combination, so beautiful. Just as I was about to consider posting an homage set to the outfit on Polyvore, I looked down. Her shoes, sigh, were plaid tennis shoes. Not even really matching plaid. I have seen this a lot and I have done the same thing. I had a great outfit, then realizing I didn't have any matching shoes, so I threw on some comfortable shoes. Maybe I hoped that my style from the ankles up would distract people the madness going on at my feet. Sadly it did not. So ladies, sew or buy, design and style great outfits, but

please don't forget the shoes!

Check out the details on Polyvore! Join our b4thedoor group on Polyvore and show us how you'd fix your b4.

Zebra, toile, batik oh my! apron

2010-06-02T16:29:00.001-04:00

So I did end up finding a pattern in my stash that I liked the basic shape of. M5825. The skirt is flared so it adds to the ruffling of it all. Most of my fabric is color coordinated (ROYGBIV) when stored, except for the top 6 pieces that need to be sewed up. These remnants are from other projects that have been completed over the years.

The totes were made in '08 from a printed canvas, that I try to keep in the car, so can say no to plastic! I'd like to make more of these, they are much better than the cheapy ones they sell at the register these days. The dress is from '09 that I wore to a wedding. And I just recently finished the zebra pencil skirt. The batik fabric was used for the bodice and skirt & I've had it in my stash for way to long. I prefer a fresh crop of fabric, even vintage fabric I want it to be new to me. Anyway, this project has helped me clear out some little pieces to make room for the new or new to me fabrics.

The ruffled layers were hand placed and measured depending on the length of the piece (the ruffles, neck & waist tie, and pleated pocket are HLT drafted). Waist tie & pleated pocket are from the tote bag fabric. All edges are finished and enclosed.

The front bow is a single piece is about 18 inches long. It was a beast to turn, but it turned out to be a nice detail.

I might revisit this pattern. Honestly, readers this could make a great gift for an Aunt I have in mind. I do think it turned out nicely, and it a quick way to use small pieces of fabric. What to you do with your extras? Keep or toss?

It this too much print on print or just right? I love it!

Pre-Summer Night Trends

2010-06-01T17:09:00.000-04:00

Ever walk into a store and think you were having de ja vu? Something about the dresses or tops or maybe the skirts seem oddly familiar. Is it the colors, fabrics or did you get disoriented and walk into the same store again? Most likely you sensed a trend. Right now, as stores begin to get their summer floor sets you can see a common thread in what will be popular this summer. Some you've seen before and some are a new twist on a classic.

Sequins

1 - Ann Taylor LOFT Petite Sequin Tank $1495                       4 - Anthropologie Streaked Light Skirt $118
2 - J. Crew Stripe Sequin Boatneck Tee $72                             5 - Banana Republic Heritage Starry Night
3 - J. Crew Sequin Chino Short $198                                              Tank $98

Zebra Print

1 - Ann Taylor LOFT Animal Jacquard Pencil Skirt $7950 4 - Anthropologie Serengeti Sundress $6995
2 - Banana Republic Haircalf Belt $5950 5 - Banana Republic Linen Zebra Shift $130
3 - Ann Taylor LOFT Zebra Print Cardigan $5950

Metallic Linen

1 - Anthropologie Burnished Short-Shorts $5995                   4 - J. Crew Golden Swirl Dress $268
2 - Anthropologie Gilded Lily Skirt $78                                 5 - Nordstrom Farinaz 'Rapture' Linen Blend
3 - Ann Taylor Loft Glitter Linen Shorts $3950                             Tunic $168

So would you wear any of these Pre-Summer Night Trends? How would you wear them?

SATC2: Charlotte York Goldblatt & Dress Homage M5455

2010-05-30T12:19:00.001-04:00

"Park Avenue Pollyanna," as coined by Carrie Bradshaw, has the most conservative style amongst her girlfriends. It's prim a proper with a twist of trendiness and a dash of who's that old lady! The pink suit/dress is by Dior, love the designers concept but the color is so heartburn, nausea, indigestion, upset stomach...you know the rest. I would/maybe so copy that in a gray or black in a minute. Speaking of which, now is the time to get the fall stuff in line, but more on that in another post. Obvi, the green and white number is a throw back to the 80s it's so LP, Lilly Pulitzer. I'm really dying over the emerald ruffled shirt dress. I do need that dress in my life. This is on my list for summer dress hopefuls, with a little less hip and a bit more fit. Conservtively sassy! Lastly, the red and white strapless dress... Love, love! More on that a little further down.

The soft washed emerald tone strapless dress is divine! Straight from the penthouse right?

The homage: Yes, B5455 again! But it ended up with a very different look for a different event. Aside from Cynthia Steffes' strapless dress by Vogue, I've been searching for a strapless sheath pattern for a while. Most of the patterns I've come across have a full skirt or are A-line. So I went back to my fave dress of the summer so far and subtracted the straps to make it work... for me.

So here are the changes:

I redrafted the top portion of the front bust pattern piece to make it strapless. Included most of the pattern pleats to an extent, which would mean that I will eventually have to ease out the difference for a good fit. The bust piece measures 5 inches in the center and 3 on the sides, vertically. On top edge, there are 12 mini darts hand placed and measured. The bottom edge had 2 pleats and 2 mini darts, one on each side, closer to the side seams.

The back bodice was modified as well but it was much easier. There is one dart on each side, as the pattern calls for. That didn't change, but after finishing the front bust and midriff with piping I remeasured for the back bodice and added 1/2 inch for the piping on the top and bottom. Piping around the top edge. Fusible horsehair (I highly recommend this for serious yet flexible stability) was used on the front midriff and plastic boning at the side seams. I would have liked to be more creative with the bust piece, but I think this works. Slightly widened the front skirt. Everything else is the same.

Fabric: Fabric Used: Red rose printed cotton stretch sateen from Habermans. 1/8 cording used. Invisable zipper. Fusible horsehair. Plastic boning.

Simply styled.

Whatcha think.

Sweet Baby Rose

2010-05-29T21:11:00.000-04:00

Remember last Sex and The City movie where Charlotte's water broke while delivering her well crafted line to Mr. Big outside a lovely restaurant? "I curse the day you were born!" Hours later, Charlotte brought sweet baby Rose into the world. How ironic. While we only got a peek of the sweet pink baby, this time around little rose will have a lot to say during her on screen moments.

Taking inspiration from the outfit that brought her into the world and her preppy Upper East Side queen mother, I created a few looks for 2-year old Rose York-Goldenblatt.

Here's my outfit if Baby Rose went to Abu Dhabi--Abu Dhabi Babi

I have one more cute post for Baby Rose, that will be on Polyvore tomorrow. To see the details on these cute toddler looks, click Sweet Baby Rose or Abu Dhabi Babi. Ma’a salama!

"Carrie"d Away

2010-05-28T14:06:00.001-04:00

So much to say today, mostly because I didn't post yesterday. Sorry, ladies got caught up in the long awaited movie viewing of Sex and the City 2! Whether you've seen it or haven't seen it, I won't provide any spoilers for you today (but you might want to avoid the rest of the internet).

The sequel to the first SATC movie did not disappoint in the fashion department, not in the least bit. In fact this week, the Today show had Patricia Field, my fashion fairy godmother and stylist for Sex and The City, on talking about some of the fabulous looks feature in SATC2. While she talked about having a budget for each look and how she managed to get fabulous looks by doing a lot of do-it-yourself items for the show, I found some very similar looks on some of my favorite stores online. So before I unveil my take on a look for Carrie, her are some little tidbits.

In the movie, Carrie arrives with her girlfriends in Abu Dhabi wearing an asymmetrical pink dress and a jeweled turban headdress. I found a similar dress at Bergdorf Goodman by Halston Heritage for $325.

Later in the movie, Carrie walks down the beach in a red strapless pleated gown. I found the dress (or similar one) at Bergdorf Goodman also by Halston Heritage for $895.

Hope you enjoyed those tidbits. Fact is, with the right fabric you can make these outfits yourself. I am definitely considering the orange pleated silk dress, maybe in a pretty yellow. Now the outfit I put together for Carrie is a little Prince-ss of Persia-influenced. Throughout all the interviews for this movie, all the actresses said that this movie is definitely an adventure. So thinking back to movies like Aladdin and forward to the upcoming Prince of Persia movie, I came up with this one.

Want details on the outfit? Click here for more information.

SATC 2: Miranda Rites

2010-05-26T19:05:00.001-04:00

If you've been around long enough, you can remember that at one time white Keds and ankle socks were chic for adult women to wear. Thank goodness the fashion trends are continually changing. Miranda's style balances the scales of workwear, partywear, brunchwear and couchwear quite seamlessly, don't you think?. IMO, her clothes are always comfortable and then stylish. Nothing fitted or tight, no major sacrifices, but she will take her toes to the limit with sky high platforms, taxi anyone?

The above set could take her from day to evening in a hot NY minute with a couple change outs. You can find all the details at b4thedoor on polyvore.

"'It's been like a play land for the most beautiful clothes in the world.' Cynthia Nixon for Marie Claire. Lucky her!

Samantha Jones - Sassy, Smart & Sexy

2010-05-25T16:50:00.000-04:00

This week HLT & I will feature Sex And The City 2-esque outfits based on your favorite New York ladies. So when you go and see the movie this Thursday, May 27, you can channel your inner SATC for the premiere or for any day in the future.

Samantha Jones. Sassy, sexy and as ageless as her dermatologist and personal physician can keep her. All through the Sex and the City television series and the movie, each Samantha outfit has been very very sexy, with a touch of the '80s. In the first SATC movie, we can see Samantha's love of the '80s in her shoulder pads, jacket silhouettes and the rockin' mix cd she brought over to help Carrie pack up her apartment. Samantha's daily homage to the '80s is based on her love for extreme fashion and excess-sories.

In SATC2, Samantha invites the ladies to the Middle East for a little rest and a lot of decadence. From the trailers and leaked snippets, we can surmise that she bumps into Smith Jerrod (old flame), meets a young hot man (new flame) and fights with menopause (hot flame). With all of these hot situations, I channeled Samantha's inner inspiration Cleopatra. In many illustrations and feature films, Cleopatra is clothed in wealth doubling as armor, always ready for unexpected battles of her country and her heart. This Carmen Marc Valvo Couture Beaded Sheath Dress is cream colored underneath but covered inch-by-inch by metal beads is taken to fashion extreme with a Prada Stone Bib Necklace, KARA by Kara Ross Stingray Cityscape Cuffs, Giuseppe Zanotti Zip Cuffed Jeweled Sandals and Zoe Diamond Sphere Earrings.

Check out the Samantha-inspired outfit on Polyvore!

SATC: Do you apron like I apron?

2010-05-24T19:49:00.000-04:00

Charlotte York with her daughters Rose and Lily have a scene in the new movie making chocolate cupcakes, or, well so it seems in the trailer. Rose has her hands perfectly covered in batter and imprints them on her mothers rear end, while she is wearing a beautiful white vintage something. But the cutesy thing is that they are all wearing this yummy cupcake apron. It's sold at Anthropologie for $32.00 for the bakers delight and $24.00 for the kids version.

For Christmas 2009 I received a wonderful custom gift from my mother. Love it. No pattern used, but these lovely layers do remind me of the sweetest confections. And of course, she gets me & my phone, so there's a hidden pocket under the 1st layer of frosting. Yummy!

This week I plan to sew up a apron for myself and post it on Friday. If you want to join in, you can. It can be newly sewed or years old. Limit 1 apron submissions per follower. Just e-mail your pictures of an apron that you sewed and a very brief description by Thursday, May 28, 2010, midnight pacific standard time (3 am EST Friday). Sorry about the short notice.

This is not a contest! It's just for fun! Join in!

Sorry to those of you who have been clicking on an empty link. I'm working with pages and it's giving be a bit of grief at the moment. The post was supposed to look like this:

Airport Attire: B4 the Door

2010-05-20T19:33:00.001-04:00

Somtimes when I get on a plane, I get the feeling that we are not all going to the same destination. I see people looking as if they are going to bed, hanging out at their house or cleaning out the gutters. My godmother would always recount the days of classy travel, where people would dress up in furs and evening gowns to go across the country on the train. While showing up the airport these days in furs and evening gowns may seem a bit over the top, save your track suit for running your next 3K and wear an outfit that just might get you bumped up to first class. Trust me, it's happened to me, it can happen to you.

See other outfit sets on the b4thedoor group on Polyvore.com!

Hot shoulder, cool color! M5658

2010-05-20T00:59:00.002-04:00

I've been wanting to sew this up for a long time, and it's finally here! There's a lot of navy in my wardrobe, but not a print like this. And I probably have enough left over for a skirt. Very happy about that!

There are a couple design issues with this pattern. The a back right dart is the same length as the left left dart. On the muslin this did not work because there was still room for shaping on the right side. So I increased the length of the dart by 1 inch. Luckily I'm working with a print so it not so bothersome, but it could be an issue if you're working with a solid. Another issue with this pattern is that it's just trying to be to many things. A one shoulder (side zip), a chocker neck (back center zip), a strapless dress (back center zip). And standing alone, none of them are truly great. So there should have been a additional pattern piece for the lower back bodice to be cut on the fold, IMO. It would totally add to the chicness. Instead there is a center back seam that would look more oddly placed on a solid colored fabric. And then lastly, the issued with the shoulder band. It's just to wide and chunky.

So basically, I won't be sewing this one up again, but clearly I'm happy with the results!

Styled: Vacay 4-star dinner

Lovin' it?

Check Out Our Closet

2010-05-19T19:07:00.001-04:00

Good evening followers and guests! Check out our new feature the B4 the Door Closet! See up close photos of our must-have and DIY items. These items are also available to clip to your Polyvore account and use to put together your own version of a great outfit. Check the closet frequently as we continue to add more pieces for your viewing pleasure.

Vacay Tulle fountain tank, M5853

2010-05-18T18:22:00.001-04:00

I can't wait for my next trip and I'm not waiting to wear this tank either!!

I've used this pattern many times before. So very simple.
Fabric: sea foam tulle- Loraines fabric in RI, cream tulle-Helen Enox Fine Fabrics in OKC, organic knit-Haberman Fabrics, MI. Used pattern piece 16 for the ruffles. I decided to layer 2 ruffles on each side, 1 inch apart. Strategically placed near the bust but not directly over the apex.

Tulle top styled: On the bay or around the way!

The J.Crew original retails for $198!! Tulle fountain tank. Yea, it was worth it.

Vacay Flutter tank, M5853

2010-05-18T16:37:00.000-04:00

Although I've been traveling all spring, I can't wait till my next vacation! Im a traveler and honestly, readers I don't travel light. Everything that I want to bring gets a vacation too. Albeit, I highly recommend taking photographs of everything you bring for insurance purposes, and in the event that your bag gets lost, which is a possibility these days. But to add the the fun, I like to keep plenty of tops in the bag for the frequent but very necessary outfit changes.

This was an easy one to make, and I've made it many time before. Fabric: Joann's. Before the binding was sewn, I added oddly shaped layers, some biased, some on the grain. Self binding & self belt.

Styled: Off to Cape Cod

This is the J.Crew version for only $35. It's not a bank breaker but it's so fun to DIY! Whatcha think?

Hey Let's Get Away

2010-05-17T18:20:00.004-04:00

Lately it seems as though every weekend is a graduation, a wedding, a wedding shower, bachlorette party, or engagement party. Celebrations like these are a wonderful opportunity to get dressed, take pictures to document your fabulous outfits, and hopefully see other fabulously dressed people to give you inspiration for the next event. After those events have passed, one can feel the need to get away, go on vacation. But before you start grabbing your vacation shorts and fanny packs, take a look at these hot vacation items.
If you are going someplace hot, then interesting pieces in light airy fabrics will have you feeling beautiful and comfortable.
From left to right: Silk Watercolor Floral Dress (Martin + Osa) $120; Drawstring Romper (Cache) $118; Textured Organza Jacket (Ann Taylor) $88; V-Neck Empire Waist Dress by Wyeth (Ann Taylor) $88; Micro Climate Dress (Anthropologie) $88

Now if your plans are a little cooler, like traipsing through Williamsburg, getting away to Mackinaw Island or an Alaskan cruise, cozy up with these vacation alternatives.
From left to right: Shawl Collar Vest (Lands' End Canvas) $49.50; Ivory Linen Gazebo Trouser (J. Crew) $98; Red Label Long Cardigan (New York & Company) $34.40; Adrianna Papell Matte Jersey & Hammered Satin Sheath Dress (Nordstrom) $158; Batik Print Floral Scarf (Ann Taylor LOFT) $29.50

So get out there and grab those "Get-Away" items before they go away. See all the sale information on the featured items below:

New York & Company: All shorts, pants and crops are buy one get the second for $10!

Martin + Osa: 30% off your entire purchase online AND in stores!

Lands' End Canvas: Lands' End 25% off regularly priced men's and women's items (Ends today!)

J. Crew: 20% off all online orders of +$150; Code: SUMMER
Nordstrom: Free standard shipping on orders of +$200

Ann Taylor LOFT: Free shipping on all orders +150 (Limited time offer)

Ann Taylor: 50% off all full-priced styles; Free shippping on all orders +$150

Cache: n/a

Anthropologie: n/a

ROY G. BIV - Do you Know your Colors?

2010-05-14T14:28:00.003-04:00

Red, orange, yellow, blue, indigo, violet. We may not all remember when are where we learned the rainbow acronym, but it comes in handy organizing your closet or thinking of possible color combinations. Now it's time to introduce the grown up version of Roy G. Biv: Pantone, the world-renowned authority on color.

The Pantone Fashion Color Report highlights the top 10 colors of the upcoming season featuring top designers use of those colors in their fall lines. The report also features commentary about the selections and inspirations for the color schemes in that season. By and large, having the Pantone Fashion Color Report helps you to be a saavy shopper pre-season and a fabulously styled woman once the season begins.

For example, the top ten colors for Fall 2010 are as shown below:Looking forward to the Fall 2010 Season, these colors are very present in many different fashion lines, from Ann Taylor LOFT to Banana Republic.

Now as you prepare for the fall season, with your
Pantone Fashion Color Report in hand you can select fabrics, dresses, pants, shoes, and jewelry that will have you looking very fashion forward and in style.

Get your Pantone Fashion Color Report for Fall 2010 at Pantone.com.

Ruffling my Feathers-B4 the Door Thursday

2010-05-13T16:20:00.005-04:00

A ruffled mind makes a restless pillow.

I don't think Charlotte Bronte and I are talking about the same thing but lately, ruffles have been keeping me up at night. They are all over the place; virtually every store has some type of ruffled inspired piece gloating in their storefront. And they are gorgeous. Effortless cascading of tissue-thin fabric can make one feel like a pretty pretty princess. So I cannot blame the throngs of women trying to figure out how to master the style, however I am unfortunately seeing some mishaps or sometimes the same interpretation over and over. So how do you take ruffles from day to night to weekend? Here's my take on the ruffle movement.

Ruffles at Work

Ruffle-y Wedding

Ruffles Night OutCheck out the details at Polyvore!

Vintage romper

2010-05-11T23:53:00.000-04:00

While traveling in North Carolina HLS & I found a unique shop for vintage patterns, fabric remnants and industrial recyclable scraps of all kinds, called the Scrap Exchange. It's a nonprofit. The store is in a large warehouse on the corner with limited parking. Didn't investigate the restrooms, but I'm guessing that they would be available if I'd asked. The staff is very helpful and courteous.

The main reason why the place stays busy are the prices. There is very little merchandise over $3.00. The prices are way below clearance and if you're a hunter this place is for you. Most of the fabric that they have are remnant pieces, but there is a very small section of fabric on bolts. I was able to find invisible zippers, a couple cute vintage patterns and a couture pant pattern that I have yet to review. They also have lots of home dec samples, bound and loose, mostly in 12-14in squares. This is a store for creative crafters too!

Some other items that I snatched were leather samples and lace. One of my favorite items purchased is this romper pattern! McCall's 7437 circia 1981! Two of these ladies look like they are going to the space center. And the other one is off to roller rink! Love that! Rompers have been on the runways all season, and I hope to get with the program. What are your thoughts? Can I keep it chic?

Impressionist floral dress, B5455

2010-05-08T23:07:00.002-04:00

En plein air is a French expression which means "in the open air", and is particularly used to describe the act of painting outdoors. Thanks wikipedia.org.

I didn't realize what this fabric and pattern would do to me. Seriously, readers I've been swooned! If that's even a word! It's been a while since vie felt a thrill like this and then my color phobia began to set in and panic ensued. Wadder or just toss it in the circular filing? But alas I found my common sense on the floor, picked it up and finished this hidden gem maybe even a diamond.

Brights and artsy florals are on trend this summer. At first I went right past this print to another boring, yet beautiful neutral fabric. But something in my peripheral caught my eye. It was a bit ugly and beautiful, to me, at the same time. Often when I'm on the hunt I snap a quick pick for reference if I'm buyin' or just to help me make up my mind, hot or not? Fabric Used: jacquard fuchsia scribble flower print, a spring bottom weight from JoAnn's, 100% Cotton. I had to use blue tailors chalk for the markings to see darts & seam lines. 1/8 cording used. Invisable zipper

Let's talk about the pattern. Butterick, I hope you're listening. I knew you could do it. Incorporate design, simplicity and style all in one pattern, that's easy enough for beginners to complete successfully and for the more experienced, an easy breezy, "I need a dress to whip up I a couple days" and look fabulous, type pattern. Pattern Description: MISSES' DRESS: Semi-fitted, straight dresses A, B, mid-knee length, have lined bodice, pleated front neckline, midriff front, side slant pockets, back zipper and hemline vent. A: self-fabric piping trim.

I know, I know I need to take more pics as I go along, but readers I got really wrapped up! Here are the detailed pics.

Lining: switched the order around a bit so I didn't have to hand stitch. Don't get be wrong, I love couture, but much more so when the techniques are appreciated. My exception: Hems! My mother taught me that. Hand stitched hems are the best!! IMO.
Back to the lining. Leave the side seams open, sew lining neckline, then armsye, pull through and press. The finish side seams. I found that under stitching was not necessary. Everything laid perfectly, especially where piped.

The piping: I choose to use the same fabric to do the piping. It's very simple to do. I usually secure the trim by sewing across the fabric through the cord to prevent slipping. The trim was placed so that the colors did dot match up. So the pink is next to the white or the purple is against the yellow. I really wanted a contrast so the colors would pop!!! That turned out well!

Pocket retrospective: Please consider your waist proportions. Next time, if there is a next time, I will narrow the upper edge of the front skirt to show more pocket. The whole rule of thirds is missed at my waistline, IMO. Probably not that obvi to some, but because I really like the rest of the dress it will stay this way.

Would I sew it again? I probably won't sew his one again, but I really recommend it. Thinking of transferring some design elements to another pattern though. I would have liked to play with the neckline, but the design was satisfying. One suggestion: keep the fabric patterned or highly textured. When initially picking this pattern, I was not enthused with the center front bust seam. It does not flow with the nice curved lined of the bodice midriff. Or do a test muslin with the front bust on the fold. I think that will work.

Conclusion: Very zingy! What do you think: too much color or perfect for summer?

B4 The Door Thursday

2010-05-06T08:50:00.000-04:00

It's Thursday and you're about to out for a quick jaunt to the coffee shop or meet a friend for something casual. It's not a big deal, no one to impress...or so you think. So you throw on some comfy jeans, t-shirt, some cute sandals, grab your bag and head out the door. Arriving at your very casual meet up, surprise! you see a very attractive man at the next table, your friend's mother stops by spontaneously, or the CEO of a company you would love to work for steps onto the elevator with you. Now you wish, you had taken a second glance b4 the door.

Many people assume so often that style does not equal comfort. So they opt for comfort. Comfortable worn jeans, a soft t-shirt and flat shoes. I have nothing against that, one just needs to remember simple pieces deserve exquisite styling.

The story above is actually a real story that happened to me. Except b4 the door, I looked at myself and thought, "Is this an outfit I'd really want to be seen in?". So I put down my purse and went back to my closet. Looking in the mirror, I thought about what piece I really want to keep on and how to make it a bit more special. A few accessories and some stylish comfortable items and we have an entirely new look.And guess what, I felt so good that I wasn't totally shocked when the attractive man gave me his number. Dressing with style has something to do with how others view you, but it has everything to do with how you see yourself. When you are impressed with your look, you have more confidence, you smile more and generally appear more approachable. People complimenting your style (either jealously in their head or verbally to you) boosts your confidence in your own eyes and their perception of you in their eyes. Give others a chance to assume that you are as awesome as you really are.

You can view the details of this look on Polyvore.com.

Crew 4 Less

2010-05-05T13:35:00.008-04:00

I love J. Crew. I am a J. Crew Aficionada. The style, the material, the smell of the store (don't act like you don't know what I'm talking about), it's beautiful. But what I love even more is a J. Crew sale, because I don't always have J. Crew money to get the J. Crew look. So after flipping through last month's (April 2010) J. Crew catalog, I charged myself to create a similar J. Crew look for at least half the cost. The solution: New York & Company.

Many people have been sleeping on this clothing retailer, however a closer look at their line will reveal very fashionable items that may lack the attention to styling that J. Crew has-a diamond in the rough. I chose this look from J. Crew to "crew 4 less" because it has a classic J. Crew style, layers and unexpected accessories. The look also has simple pieces, layered together with items that can be found at other retailers.

At New York & Company, I pulled a few items that closely resemble this classic J. Crew layering look. Here I quoted the online prices, however New York & Company is having a wonderful sale as well with many of the items an additional 30%-50% off.

In the end J. Crew's $822.50 outfit is modestly replicated at New York & Company for a mere $117.30. What a deal! This is something anyone can do by pulling inspiration from a styled outfit from your favorite store and purchasing items within your budget from quality retailers. Great style for a better price.

Cashmere cascade jacket, NL6619

2010-05-04T07:22:00.001-04:00

Pattern Description: This is a TNT (tried & tested) pattern for me.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Basically it did, but with raw edged salmon ruffles on the front & back.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? So easy to modify, seeing that this is the 5th time I've made this basic pattern jacket!!!

Fabric Used: A cashmere blend from LA fabric district. Lining: Bemberg/Ambiance for logantex.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Most of my time was spent fussing with the rows and rows of ruffles...finessing them just right. I added 4 inch wide machine basted ruffles (4 layers on each side), hand gathered and placed them. Bottom 2 ruffle layers wrap around the back of the jacket. Covered buttons, sewn button holes. Fully lined with piping, self drafted facing.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Of course I won't be sewing this exact style again, but with this pattern you never know. Since it's a cashmere blend it's pretty warm to wear. When worn, I didn't need a coat and only have worn camisoles to layer, nothing more. I sewed this back in December 2009, so it's already been to parties galore!

Styled for cool breezy Michigan spring evening:

This is the J.Crew original. It was made in silk & flannel. Retailed for $188.

The lace cami I made & love. It just goes with everything!
Love! Love!

B5316, Alumni dress details, Chetta B

2010-05-03T18:05:00.002-04:00

Pattern Description: Lined, fitted dresses A, B, above mid-knee length, have darted bodice and skirt front pleats, side pockets, back zipper and hemline slit, topstitch trim. A: cap sleeves. I made version B with some design alterations.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Mostly, except for what I changed.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Pretty easy, I like the way that the lining was inserted.

Fabric Used: Stretch cotton sateen from Joann's, but that was not the first choice. Fully lined in bemberg.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I changed the neckline to a capped shoulder/boatneck. This was fairly easy to do once I had the anterior shoulder and posterior shoulder measurements and the total circumference. As the pattern calls for the shoulder seam to bisect the arm, for the alteration I wanted to maintain a smoother finish and moved the seam to the back. This worked out very well. The on seam pockets and pleats are great and appropriately placed.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?Yes, but for my self!

Conclusion: She has already worn the dress with rave reviews. Comfortable & fabulous if I don't say so myself.

The Alumni Dress, Chetta B 5316

2010-05-02T06:06:00.003-04:00

It's amazing when you can wear a dress so fabulous that you feel you could live in it. Sit in your home and write your blog in it. Oh yes, I'm wearing it now, and I feel fab-u-lous! So finally it's all come together the dress, the belt, the shoes, the jewelry, the whole look.
So without further adieu, here she is: my dress and I.

My sister did an absolutely wonderful job at turning my sketch into reality. I also completed my belt but with an entirely different direction than I intended. After going almost blind trying to sew beads on to felt and then, felt on ribbon, I realized that it was not looking how I envisioned. So I took a step back and looked at my inspiration, the J. Crew bib necklace. If someone was to look in my accessories cabinet (which is on the verge of needing it's own closet) they would think I was a 55 year-old politician. Because I have enough antique jewelry and brooches to make your granny squeal with excitement. So I took some of my favorite pieces, a Weiss brooch and earring set, a fern brooch from Francesca's Collection, a spiral flower brooch and earring set, flower pin from Target, a pearl pin from T.J. Maxx and some orchid petals and made it work. I think it came out fabulously.

Beads, crystals and belts, oh my!

2010-04-30T06:22:00.008-04:00

I've been posting about preparing for alumni weekend. I worked out the fabric issue and picked a pattern to use as the foundation for the dress. I braved the masses and went to the new H&M store and found a very cute tote for $17.95. It has the bow accent that is also very popular right now. In previous posts, I have mentioned making a belt inspired by the bib necklaces which are becoming rapidly mainstream. (Now available at Express in various colors & styles)

Traipsing to my local Micheal's, I looked for the necessary materials: felt, beads, little flowers, etc. Still needing some extra items, I went to The Bead Room in Durham, NC. It is a wonderful store with an interesting history to it. There I got a few different kinds of beads to at to my belt.

a) gray stone beads b) clear glass beads c) silver filigree flowers d) cherry crystal beads e) gold filigree leaves f) peacock baroque pearls g) textured metal beads

I also cut out felt pieces like leaves and circles and I'll see what I can do with it. Stay tuned. ~HLS

Zebra pencil skirt, B5466

2010-04-29T21:16:00.000-04:00

The jist: Semi fitted straight skirt, above mid knee, has darts, princess seams, waistband & self belt. Pattern Sizing: 8-14. Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?Yes it did! Were the instructions easy to follow? Didn't read them. What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? After fitting, it's a hr project.
Fabric Used: Cotton print from Lemon Creek Fabrics. Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:Shortened pattern about 4inches, inserted an invisible side zip instead of a back zip. Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes! This is me new skirt standby pattern. It's super comfortable and I've worn it a couple of times on mini vacays.
Super easy pattern!

I really wanted to sew this print more than anything! And I had fun styling it. Check that out here:

What are your thoughts? Feel free to share!

Dastardly!

2010-04-29T16:58:00.000-04:00

Well, we all learn lessons. Sometimes the hard way. That's the adult way of looking at things. When really I'm upset and a bit ticked off. After searching for a better deal on a pink stretch twill, I came up empty handed. The hot pink cotton-Lycra blend, I found earlier was the best fabric. Notice I said was, because when I entered the store to purchase the fabric I was stunned to find that it was gone. Yes, gone. The ENTIRE bolt of fabric. It's like going to the Cheesecake Factory to order the Pumpkin Cheesecake only to have them tell you they won't have it until next fall, it's all gone. Except in my case, the fabric is not reorder-able, ever. A moment of silence for the beautiful jacquard...

Well, time is a ticking so I have to kick it into gear and be resourceful. I raced to the nearest Jo-Ann Fabrics and searched through their stretch twill fabrics. None with the subtle design that the other fabric had *sniff* (sorry, still in mourning), but aha! a nice stretch twill that is a beautiful color on my skin.
So now, I have to move quickly. The belt I'm working on will have to be tweaked a little because the colors have changed. I will post pics of the belt as soon as I have a working sample.~HLS

P.S. See "Tips" in pic on selecting fabric colors in the store.

I so need color in my life!!!!! You?

2010-04-25T23:22:00.001-04:00

Finally, the J. Crew summer rollout came out last week! Yea! Fresh pool, golden beach & blossoms support much of the vibrant pieces. $817.99 for some retail therapy or retail binge! DIY is the plan. Stay tuned for these projects. First up, a dress inspired by the En plein air scarf, a bit of eye candy all over. ~HLT

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Every Girl In The World

2010-03-24T23:15:00.006-04:00

Every woman has that one event, an ex's wedding, a high school reunion, a job interview or a trip inside Vogue which demands that you buy, make or steal one ensemble that encompasses and magnifies your years (or months) of personal accomplishment. For me it is...Alumni Weekend.

Now, I truly believe that each day should be a fashion show in your own mind. Wearing clothes that makes you feel confident and play to your strengths while causing an occasional bystander to wonder who you are or bask in your impressive style, should be a goal each day. And that desire is multiplied exponentially at the above mentioned events.

So after finding inspiration from Harper's Bazaar, Vogue and a little Polyvore, I came up with this. Now I do not sketch like a fashion designer. I downloaded a free silhouette from a website, drew my dress and filled it in. Anyone can do that, if you have fond memories of coloring books and crayons as a child, then you can do this.

As for the style of the dress, I wanted something tasteful, but sexy, effortless but interesting and also comfortable. Comfort does not mean elastic waistbands. However, it can mean a little stretch Lycra in a beautiful hot pink twill fabric with a subtle jacquard diamond design. I found this fabric at my local fine fabrics store for almost $20/yard. (Deep breath) I am currently without employment, so I have to think it over. I may be able to find something similar at another fabric store for a little less. *Fingers crossed*

The belt is something that I am going to make myself (My talented sister is going to sew the dress). I was inspired by all the bib necklaces you see lately, in particular the J. Crew bib necklace featured in their most recent catalog. However, rather than a necklace (I have broad shoulders and a short neck), I opted for a eye-catching belt that would accentuate the narrow section of my waist. So stay tuned, we'll see how this all turns out. I still have shoes and jewelry to consider. ~HLS